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Graded List

Help is needed to build this graded list, please email your suggestions.

Suggested Graded List
Not just as Hard
VS	The Black Thief
	Lazarus
	Cheiftain
	Odyssey
	Girona
	The Fence
	Roaring Meg
	Taoiseach
HVS	Good Morning Judge
	Sabre Rattler
	Stone Mad
	The Offence
	Revival
	Pangur Bán
	December
	Burn Up
	Hell's Kitchen
E1	April
	Dark Corners
	Midnight Cruiser
	Fireball
	Poor Relation
	An Bealach Rúnda
	Fáth Mo Bhuartha
	Railroad
	Simple Minds
	Aoife
	Crib Pad Crack
	Toby Jug
	Mongrel Fox
	An Gobán Soar
	Black Taxi
	Thunderhips
	Doldrum
	The Wrestler
E2	Blind Pew
	Equinox
	Mizen Star
	The Embankment
	Darkness
	Titanic
	Hurricane
	Sandpiper
	Morphine & Chocolate
	Slittery Slat
	Conchubair
	The Stoat
	Cool Hand Luke
	The Brasser
	Pyrrhic Victory
	Blockbuster
	Cúchulainn
E3	Run Fast Run Free
	Crip Pad Crack Direct
	Flashover
	Marconi
	The Kerb
	Jolly Roger
	GBH
	Flying Lizards
	Blade Runner
	Ocean Boulevard
	Dark Forces
	Salango
	Visual Contact
E4	Talking Heads
	Born to Run
	Face Value
	Heaven Can Wait
	Track of the Cat
	Candy Kisses
	Hallowe'en
	Promised Land
	Buttons and Bows
	Rusty Halo
E5	The Wall of Prey
	The Mask
	Styx
	The Wall of Prey Direct
E6	Primal Scream
	Hell's Kitchen Arête
	Above and Beyond
E7	A Bad Skin Day
E8	The Complete Scream
	An Bealach Eile
A Bit Harder

Route News

The red text is now all incorporated into the Guide Page, so study it for corrections to the 2002 Guidebook.

This page is very out of date, so will soon be deleted.

What Grade interests you?
S  HS  VS  HVS  E1  E2  E3  E4  E5  E6  E7  E8

V Diff

• Cruthin: 15m. S. Billane and V. McCartney, March 1976. An old route not listed in the current guide. Some of the cracks between The Brat and the top of the Ballycastle Descent Gully have been climbed at up to Severe. One of these is Cruthin which takes a slanting groove line to the right of The Brat.

Severe

• 301. Bramble: A good route. If cleaned it'd be great.

HS

• 302. Dríodar na hAille HS: Worth doing.
• 320. Velocette HS (4b): Probably worth upgrading to VS. Good.

VS

• 194. Roaring Meg VS (5a,4b,4a): First pitch is a corker, last two are a bit manky.
• 257. Dearg Doom VS (4a,4c,4c): First pitch needs to be cleaned, not nice at all, the last two used to be good.  The top pitch suffered a pretty substantial rock fall in August 2005.  Approximately 6 metres of the middle of the third pitch has fallen down, some to the bottom and also some precariously perched on that grassy ledge that bisects that cliff.  It's just sitting there and is ready to topple, perhaps to anyone below or anyone doing the route. Take care.
• 239. Girona VS (4c,4c): Best overall VS on the Crag! The first pitch is 27m and not 43m as described.
• 241. Chieftain VS (4b,4b): First pitch is 28m not 43m. This route would benefit from cleaning. Any volunteers?
• Taoiseach VS (4c,4c): First pitch is 26m not 42m. No longer loose or scruffy.
• The Brat VS (4b): Good.
• Emmanuelle VS (4b,4a): Top pitch is dangerous with loose blocks.
• Balooba VS (4c,4b): No longer scruffy or loose.
• Black Thief VS (4b): The usual starting point for climbing at Fair Head. Thoroughly cleaned on 30/07/03 by Dave Corbett.
• The Fence VS (4c): A fantastic route and much better than The Black Thief. It has shed some loose rock and may shed more, but is seeing loads of traffic. Worth 3 stars not 2.
• Samson VS (4c): Gone. It collapsed in the middle of July 2004.
• Lazarus VS (4c): A Good Route. Cleaned by Alan Blair in Sept' 03.
• Cats Whiskers VS (4c): Dave Corbett says: "Sustained with nice moves that are well protected.
• Fat City VS (4c): Dave Corbett says: "A brillant VS, well protected with an interesting crux around the bulge."

HVS

• Striapach HVS (4c,5a,5a): Andy Marshall says: " Brilliant is the only word to describe this route. Paul Swail and I set off up this thinking, hey sure it's only HVS. On entering what looked like a chimney of doom, we discovered a climb with hardly a crimp on it (new climbing to me!) But what a pleasant climb, always in the security of being a human chockstone wedged in the crack, the squirm to the top has made this route one of my all time favorites, with the run out being class! (easier to do in one pitch as the belay peg at the first belay has rusted away)  Unbeliveable route an old school outing that's brilliant fun and one to do for everyone !!!!! You won't regret it!!!!"
• Jezebel HVS (5b): Cleaned by Alan Blair on 14/10/03. A good route and a lot harder than Pangur Ban.
• November HVS (4c,5a): The four words in the route description: "Hard for the Grade," should be deleted from the guide. This referred to it when it was graded VS. It is lowish in the HVS grade.
• Burn Up HVS (5a,5a,5a): The hall of fame HVS of the crag with a cracking "throne" belay at the top of pitch one. Bliss. Save a big cam (friend 5) or No. 9 hex for last few metres. The top two pitches are best climbed as one.
• Hells Kitchen HVS (5a,5a): A great route right on the borderline between HVS and E1. Both pitches are good. Gets the sun from about 2pm onwards. Leave the hexes behind. Cleaned on 24/09/03 by Alan Blair and again by Geoff Somerville on 25/06/2006.
• December HVS (4c,5a): Definitely worthy of it's up-grade from VS. Easy to approach by 60m abseil.
• Pangur Ban HVS (5a): Best single pitch HVS at the head. Very well protected. Cleaned on 8/08/03. This route is incorrectly attributed in the guide. It was first climbed by Claire Sheridan, not Calvin.
• Scarecrow HVS (5a,4c,5a): Here's an account by Tom Bruton. "Just to update you all on my 'ascent' of scarecrow with Ian Mulvany. We 'climbed' it in a 2 day assault in Sept 2002. Cleaning is probably a more apt description. Progress was so slow that we let darkness and rain beat us on day one before retreating from top of pitch 2. We left most of a rack up there though and abbed in to do the top pitch the next day. We abbed in on our climbing rope which jammed up top and ended up having to prusik it prior to climbing it. Stubbornness paid off though and I would say we both had a memorable experience. I'm quite keen to go back and do it in style. When shall we plan it Ian? All up it's a fantastic route. Very high end of HVS. Biggest problem is it's inaccessibility so weeds build up due to lack of traffic. You need to abb in and it's hard to locate the abb in. That's the story with Scarecrow. I've been trying to convince people to climb it, if it's adventure you're looking, scarecrow has it in bag loads."
• Sabre Rattler HVS (4c): Bold start.
• Good Morning Judge HVS (5a,4a): A good little tester. Much faster if done as one pitch.
• Stone Mad HVS (5a): A cracking crux route. Cleaned on 25/09/03. Deserves on star.
• The Offence HVS (5a): No longer loose. It has been cleaned up into a good route on 16/06/04.
• North Ship HVS (5b): Bold finish on poor holds, hairy enough.
• Drimadoon HVS (5a): Very pleasant.
• Paudee HVS (5b): Hairy enough.

E1

• Midnight Cruiser E1 (5b): Probably the most popular E1 at Fair Head. It's fantastic and considered not that hard, when compared to the others.
• Aoife E1 (5b,5a): A must do route with a great sustained section up to the belay ledge. Cleaned by Calvin Torrans in 2005.
• Thunderhips E1 (5b): Hard at the top. Bring a few large cams for the finish.
• April E1 (5b): Both variations good. Note: The route description for the variation finish, should read. "Climb April until the top of the second short ramp (after the crux of April) to just below the chimney, move right on good holds to the crack on the arête, and follow this to the top." Variation finish deserves 2 stars.
• Duais E1 (5b): Cleaned by Ray Hunt in June 2006. Ray says: "It's a butch old-fashioned  style of route. Loads of gear, if you've the strength to place it! Don't believe the guide book- the FIRST overhang is the hardest, after that you're warmed up and in the mood! Should get more traffic, as should it's neighbour Poor Relation. So, don't just go to the Prow and do the usual suspects: there's a wealth of experience and fun to be had in the lesser known routes like these!"
• Poor Relation E1 (4b,5b): A superb second pitch. There's a bit of grass and heather on first pitch but it's insignificant. The second pitch is a great pitch, in good condition and merits **. Quite bold starting the traverse and quite hard but well protected through the crux. The crux is very similar to the crux of Sandpiper.
• New City Allstars E1(5b,5b,4c): A good solid E1. Quite Hard.
• Drag Race Queen E1 (5b,5b): Cleaned thoroughly in 1999 by Alan Blair. Alan found it solid and well protected and don't be put off by talk of the wide crack on the top pitch as there is a smaller one as well for the gear.
• Black Taxi E1 (5b): Hard. The jammed flakes described are not the obvious looking ones at half height. They are on up at about 3/4 height.
• The Doffer E1 (5b): Cleaned on 1/10/03 by Ray Hunt. At 25m, it becomes friend size 4, then 5, then 6 territory and has caused a number of leaders to back off just before the point of no return, as they discover the shear inadequacy of their rack. These cams were not even invented when Calvin Torrans did it in early February of 1977. Hold that thought. It has only ever had a few ascents, and is an awesome pitch of massive proportions. It definitely has a big wall feel about it.
• Darkness E1 (5c): This is a top route, very sustained, deserves E2 so don't let anyone tell you anything different. Every move is as hard as the last. It is a popular route and the climbing is finger cracks, a bit like the crux of midnight cruiser, only all the way. Cleaned by Ray Hunt on 25/05/04.
• Fáth Mo Bhurtha E1 (5b): Extensively cleaned on 29/07/03 by Gary Wilson and again on 17/07/06 by Geoff Somerville. It's now Mint. An excellent route worth 3 stars.
• Toby Jug E1 (5a,5b): The first pitch is at 26 m not 33 m. Belay level with the traverse of Sandpiper on the good ledge, not further up. Good climbing on the sustained 2nd pitch.
• Doldrum E1 (4c,5b,5a): A great old school style route. A useful chock stone has long since fallen out of the offwidth on the second pitch. However don't let the word offwidth put you off, there are enough small edges to make it climbable without the need for thrutching. The leader would be very reassured by bringing a No 6 Friend, or at least a No 5, for the offwidth. The pitch lengths should be amended to: (1) 20m. (2) 37m. (3) 15m. The third pitch, (ii). climb the deep cracks directly behind the belay, is the usual much better finish and is 5a not 4c.
• An Bealach Rúnda E1 (5a,5b,4a,5a): The first pitch is 45m not 52m. Hence 50m ropes are more than adequate. The top 2 pitches are usually run together. The last pitch is 5a. An abseil down An Goban Soar deposits you very close to this route and saves the big walk in. 100m rope required.
• The Wrestler E1 (5c): Feels more like E2 and lives up to it's name. This is a cracking jamming test piece, well protected, with hand sized jams. Hard.
• An Gobán Soar E1 (5a,4c,5b): A great route but lacking traffic. Hard final pitch.
• Simple Minds E1 (5b): A great little test piece in jamming. Often tried and often spits people out.
• Eithne Inguba E1 (5b,4c) and Argosy E1 (5b,4b): The hanging block 2m above the ground used to describe the start of these routes has now fallen away but the photo in the new guide is good.
• Manannán E1 (5a,5b,4c): Last climbed by Willie Canning and Colin Wright in Sep 01. Colin says "The route was very dirty. As far as I can remember the first pitch was straight forward with adequate protection. The second pitch was a nightmare with a crack that I could squeeze half myself into. As I was on the top rope on the 2nd pitch I can't comment on the gear. I do vaguely remember going through some weird sexual act riding the rock in an attempt to get up and out of the crux which was steep and hard. Pitch 3 is very loose and anything knocked down will hit the belayer, so be careful, but the gear on it is good. I would recommend that if anyone is planning to do this route check it on abseil first. It would also benefit from an extensive cleaning." Eddie Coopers top tip is: "Don't do Manannán." Be warned.
• Crib Pad Crack E1 (5b): Sustained. Cleaned on 22/07/03. Immaculate.
• Loosestrife E1 (5b): A bit harder than Dark Corners. Cleaned on 27/08/03 by Ken Lindsay. The rockfall from Samson has left some loose rock at the start.
• Dark Corners E1 (5b): Good. Cleaned on 5/10/03 by Ken Lindsay. Has since suffered rockfall.
• The Dook E1 (5b): Pleasant and steep.
• Scandinavia E1 (5b): Bring the small nuts.
• Hard Rain E1 (5b): Cleaned a couple of years ago by Ken Lindsay. Good.
• Orange Blossom Special E1 (4a,5b): Dirty and unappealing. Needs cleaned.
• Sreang Scruab E2 (4b,5c): The good spike as described in the route description has fallen away. This section is the crux and is now a good solid E2 (5c) and hard at that. The loose blocks do not affect the climbing.
• King Cobra E1 (5a,5a): Very Grassy.
• Creeper E1 (5a,5b,5b): Really really dirty but a fantastic route if it were cleaned and opened up again.
• Juggernaut HVS (4c,5a): Don't even go there. Manking.

E2

• Blockbuster E2 (5c,4c,5b): Martin kocsis says: "This is the best E2 jamming route at Fair Head. It's more continuous than Hurricane, more sustained (and as hard) as The Brasser, and has a truly excellent top pitch that is the equal of any on the head. It keeps going to the very last move. this is a route that any potential 'best jammer in the world' needs to get themselves on; a real testpiece! The first two can be run together with a 60m rope at about 55m and little drag. Two pitches gives a better experience all round!" The pitch lengths should be amended to read: 1) 23m, 2) 33m, 3) 35m.
• Scorpion E3 (5b,5c,5c): Top section recleaned in May 2005 and then climbed bottom up led by Julian Maund with Harry Cripps on 23/6/05. Bottom half was very grassy and still needs a thorough brushing. This is a superb climb and would be outstanding if fully cleaned. Extremely sustained on the big pitch and hard to the very top of the climb. Due to the large number of 5c moves, it definitely rates E3. The second pitch is 48m and can be done with 50m ropes. It is probably just possible to abseil directly to the bottom on a 100m rope. There isn't much room for error so future parties should check it before blindly parachuting it!.
• Slittery Slat E2 (5c): Cleaned on 18/10/03. The peg (old, but looks solid) can be backed up with a medium hex and a No.3 or 4 nut.
• Cuchullain E2 (5b,5c,5c): Greg Fell says,"Best E2 I’ve done anywhere. Better than Left Wall etc… top pitch is worth its 5c, the middle pitch has a hard move low down that is the 5c move. When you know the area, it is perfectly possible to abseil down Buttons and Bows and get round to the bottom of the climb. This can be done in one 50m abseil if you leave the belay close to the edge of the cliff."
• Conchubair E2 (5a,5c): This is a fantastic route, not to be missed. The peg mentioned in the guide is nearly rusted through and is useless, but it isn't needed anyway. A good belay can be taken (semi-hanging), in the corner crack on good footholds, at about 25m, just above the small ledge. The ledge itself in the description has poor gear, and on up at the old peg, the gear and the stance isn't any better.
• The Stoat E2 (5a,5c): This was cleaned in 2007 by Calvin Torrans and Clare Sheriden and is in mint condition. The peg is gone. For the belay either: (i) 5a. Belay at the first black groove in the same place as the climber in the photo on Page 122, or a much better alternative is: (ii) 5b. Continue up the corner on steeper ground for a further 10m and belay on good footholds just below the next black section.
• Titanic E2 (5a,5c): A sensational pitch and the overhang is not as hard as it looks, friend 5 useful, but not essential. This was meticulously cleaned on 29/6/03 and is in the best condition it has ever been. The top used to be very grassy and covered in lichen, this has all been removed. Deserves three stars now it's clean.
• Blind Pew E2 (5a,5b): A fantastic route, with two options for the first pitch. 3 Star route. The route was extensively cleaned on 17/08/03 taking over 3 hours. Its three stars are now brighter than ever. Enjoy it. The second pitch has top quality bridging on bomber finger cracks. The first pitch is 27m, the second 33m.
• Equinox E2 (5b,5b): Twice the size of Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech and four times more spectacular. A dangerous block was removed from the top pitch in 2002 by Paul McGarrity. The second pitch is 5b and the description in the guide should read: 2) 21m (5b). Continue up the corner to a bulge and move over this to good jugs which lead to the top. This route was meticulously cleaned on 29/6/03 and is back in immaculate condition. Read an account by Mike Matiasek here. It's a popular route to do in one pitch, just watch the ropes don't get stuck at the overhang. It's about 52m, so is easy enough with 50m ropes, as the 2nd can step up onto a ledge while you set up the belay.
• Hurricane E2 (5b,5b): A magnificent route. Niall Gault says: "It is superb, the crux is the small triangular roof crack on the first pitch, followed by a sustained crack which leads to big belay seats, the second pitch goes up and breaks off left on small footholds, when a left trending crack reveals itself. It’s hard to see the guide book description of a “detached pillar”, but when to take the left trend is obvious." The variation 2nd pitch was cleaned and led by Geoff Somerville and Ray Hunt in July 2006. It is an excellent well protected variation.
  The route description and pitch lengths should be amended to:
  (1) 37m (5b). Climb the groove to the overhang at 12m. Move through the overhang (crux) on good fist jams and continue up the steep crack to a good belay on the left.
  (2) 24m (5b). Climb up for 6m to just below the overhang. Using the left trending crack, hand traverse left on small footholds, then continue up the left crack to the top, or...
  (2) 24m E2 (5c). Direct finish. Geoff Somerville, Ray Hunt 17/07/2006. Climb up and straight through the overhang (crux). Move slightly left to good jugs and follow the steep crack to the top.
• Sandpiper E2 (5c,5a): Superb rock. An awesome line. The second pitch is longer than 6m, its about 10m.
• The Brasser E2 (5c,5a): Beautiful sustained jamming on the first pitch, with gear on demand. A short and technical thin crack on the second.
• Mizen Star E2 (5b,5b): A joy to be on. The first pitch is a great pitch, lacking the exposure of the other E2's. The second pitch can be protected by moving left and up before stepping across so don't be put off.
• The Embankment E2 (5c): Although it doesn't look it, this is reasonably well protected, with mostly nuts and smaller cams but bring a few larger pieces for the start. If you've been successful on the E1's at the Prow this is the logical next step. A fantastic route.
• Cool Hand Luke E2 (5c,5b,4b): The second pitch is very bold. The last pitch (Muck Savage) is filthy but thankfully short.
• Pyrrhic Victory E2 (5a,5b): Second pitch is brilliant sustained finger cracks. Best to avoid the grubby first by abseiling in.
• Archangel E2 (5c): Easier for the tall. Thin gear at the bottom.
• Timebends E2 (5c): There is gear to be found - you just have to look hard for it!

E3

• Solid Mandala E3(5c/6a,6a,5b,5b): Take RP's for the second pitch. Clean enough. Technical moves in the groove. The "old peg runners" mentioned in the route description were never there in the first place, so the route has always been bold through the crux moves.
• Visual Contact E3 (6b): Martin Kocsis says: "A more striking line than Jolly Roger, and at least as good. The 6b crux is fairly graded and well protected, meaning that if you can't do it, just pull on a wire and enjoy the remaining 40m of steep, sustained and occasionally puzzling moves. The legendary "Black Nick" Colton seconded me in a haze of superlatives, floated through the crux pronouncing it "Broughton 5c" and vowed to return to it again: high praise indeed! Without the incongruous crux, it's a true Fairhead E3 5c."
• Jolly Roger E3 (6a,5c): A thin first pitch followed by a sustained second pitch. A classic line. The first pitch is 27m and the second 30m, not 45m. It's possible to do this as a mega pitch with a 60m rope.
• Blade Runner E3 (5c, 6a): A powerful line very similar to the top pitch of Jolly Roger but with the crux at the top. Cleaned on 26/07/04. The first pitch is 23m and the second 24m, total length 47m. Deserves two stars. The alternative left hand finish has lost a few of it's wedged blocks. Might now be harder than 5c.
• The Kerb E3 (5c): Cleaned on 18/10/03. An exciting route which passes three overhangs, using technical footwork.
• Childs Play E3 (5c): Needs to dry out well before trying it, otherwise it can be very greasy. Cleaned by Ali Moles in Sept '03.
• Dark Forces E3 (6a,5c,4c): Tremendous climbing. Second pitch contains some sustained jamming and may be physically harder than the first. Brilliant climbing throughout!
• X Men E3 (5c,6a,5a): Greg Fell says: "Fantastic. Both main pitches are magnificent. First pitch gives some of the best hand jamming that I’ve ever done. First pitch is 35m not 45m. Andy Marshall added a more direct variarion finish called The Wolverines Finish in 2007.
• Raglan Road E3 (6a,5c): Greg Fell says: "What a first pitch - superb. Definitely only 5c, never mind any of this 6a rubbish, some of the locals had suggested that it was solid 6a. The climbing is steady 5b with the one or two hard moves to get the jug above the crux. Second pitch is excellent thrashing. Make sure you bring a f4." All reports thoroughly recommend the first pitch as a superb pitch and it's possible to take an abb off from the belay if desired.
• Ocean Boulevard E3 (5c,5b): Excellent. Steep jamming and bridging on the first pitch. Solid. Cleaned on 26/07/04.
• Low Profile E3 (5c): Long reach at the crux. Top crack could do with a clean. Perhaps best to abseil in from the top, with your mate making sure you get to the right spot, from the other side of Grey Man’s Path. This would save the death scramble to get to the start.
• Crib Pad Crack Direct: E3 (6a): A soft touch for E3. Cleaned on 8/08/03. Great gear.
• Marconi E3 (5c): A great route. After a handful of E2's have been ticked, this route has to be the next goal. Not too long and builds up nicely saving the crux till you're right at the top. And don't worry the gear is good, after the 2 ½ friend, if you need it!
• GBH E3 (6a): As the description says, "A good route for the aspiring hard man," a real test piece. One to do, fall off, do again, fall off again, continue until the elusive clean lead is gained. Count yourself well hard if you get it first time.
• Soundman E3 (5c): Airy moves on small gear.
• Salango E3 (5b,5c): Best E3 on the cliff. A fantastic line and the two pitches culminating in a brilliant climax. Top of the grade.
• Flashover E3 (4c,5c): Best to abseil in for the second pitch only. A hard, but short test in jamming. Some loose pebbles at the exit so belayer would be advised to wear a helmet. Low in the grade.

E4

• Promised Land E4 (6a,5b): Eddie Barbour says: "The best pitch at Fair Head. It is totally awesome."
• Heaven Can Wait E4 (6a, 6a): Kevin Power says: "The start is now 6a, it feels properly hard, it's definitely the hardest section on the route. You could traverse in from the right to make things a bit easier but thats not the line. There are loose blocks at the roof, near the courner but they are easy to avoid. You traverse underneath them so they should be a problem. I pulled off a crimp on the arete yesterday. There are probably one or two more crimps that will break off, but in general the route is solid. The band of rock on top is a bit brittle and you do wonder how solid it is as you traverse right on crimps just below the finish, but if you do come off there is nothing to hit below and your belayer is out of harms way under the roof. The route is really worth doing just for the positions you get into traversing the roof, if you like exposure then thats the place to be."
• Candy Kisses E4 (6a,6a): Kevin Power says: "The first pitch is very green and it takes away from the climbing. A few people had said that it was fine so I didn't bother abbing the line. If anyone is going to do it, it would be well worth spending an hour with a brush first.  Other than the green it's a brilliant route."
• Face Value E4 (6a,6a): Fantastic first pitch. So unlike the typical Fair Head brutal crack climb. Much of it on your feet and with lots of opportunity to rest your arms. After the overhang, step right for a rest and runners, before trending back left.
• Power Play E4 (6a): Greg Fell says: "Didn't get the route. Bastard move around the pod. Layback up facing left. Good-ish gear. R1 and F2 for crux pod. Save some tiny friends for higher up. The route is clean enough."
• Rusty Halo E4 (6a): Greg Fell says: "Excellent. Felt hard for bottom end E4. Maybe it was our hands that would not fit into the crack. Do all Irishmen have hands this thin? Possible to abseil down the line. The route was very clean." Simon Moore describes the route as: "The line consists of a technical start of immaculate face climbing with good, spaced, though thought provoking, protection, to a slight rest below the final straight. With the top in sight, and what feels like a good E4 to get you there, you must tackle the crux crack on poor finger and hand jams, then pull over the bulge to summit on one of the most asthetically pleasing pitches I have ever climbed." A popular route.
• Hallowe'en E4 (5c,6a,4c): Greg Fell says: "Two excellent pitches. Second pitch is fantastic: long and sustained. It was dirty, however. Recommend to abseil down the line and clean it first."
• Born to Run E4 (6a,5c,5c): Greg Fell says, "What can you say. One of the best routes I’ve ever done. ****ing marvellous!!!!! It is worth mentioning that it is possible to do the top two pitches in one runout with 50m ropes and lots of runners. If you are going to do this, leave a belay rope tied close to the edge, using the large block as some of the other stuff is a bit manky to belay to! You can abseil down the line of Halloween, using the thread provided by the large block directly above the crag. 85m. If you have never done the walk it is worth it though as the scenery is mighty impressive." Ali Moles spent 4 and a half hours cleaning it in Sept '03.
• Buttons and Bows E4 (6a,5b): The classic E4 of the crag. ‘RP-tastic’. An excellent technical and bold climb. Nowhere do the runners appear solid enough (at least psychologically) to hold the big falls that you could take. Mostly on your feet, slab climbing - technical.
• Back to the Future 8 E4 (6a,6a,5b): Highly recommended as one of the best kept secrets of the crag. Border line E3/4. Brilliant first 2 pitches and at the top of the 2nd pitch is the most perfect belay ledge you would ever dream to get. Do it.
• Talking Heads E4 (6a,5b): A perfectly positioned block sits at the top, making the abseil in a cinch. Bottom pitch is immaculate. The top pitch could do with a spruce up. This wouldn't take long.
• Track of the Cat E4 (6a): This is 45m not 50m.
• Give Up E4 (4c,5a,6b): Up graded after Eddie Cooper freed the top pitch. Amend the grade from E1 in the guide. Also, the second pitch is loose and dangerous so it is best to abseil in just for the top pitch.

E5

• The Wall of Prey E5 (6b,5c): The classic E5 of the crag with good protection at the crux. Many are saying it is low in the grade and E4 (6a, 5c) might be more realistic.
• The Mask E5 (6a,6a): Described by Simon Moore as, "amazing".

E6

• Hells Kitchen Arête E6 (6a): A popular line. This has a loose flake on it, where the arête steepens. It wobbles a couple of inches with very little force and is unavoidable to use. Probably needs pulling off before the route can have another ascent. (June 08)
  
• Primal Scream E6 (6b): The spell that this route had cast went unchallenged for 13 years until James Pearson blasted it away for good with the 2nd ascent in 2005. This has been followed by a flurry of ascents and it's now viewed as a quality E6, good for the grade, that isn't the horror people had suspected. Considerable controversy surrounded the "over-cleaning" of this route in 2005, by someone who didn't have the balls big enough to admit it was them. The result was a considerably improved nut placement was which has left most people who do it now to say it is a soft touch for E6. It's recently turned into a total trade route. The last part of the route description should be amended to read: "From the horizontal break follow the thin right-trending crack on the right for a few metres until it is possible to traverse left on crimps to better holds and so to the top."
• Styx E6 (6b,6b): Eddie Cooper bagged the second ascent in 1996. Eddie confirmed the grade as E6 (6b,6b) and describes it as one of the most serious and hardest lines on the crag.
• Above and Beyond E6 (6b,6b): Got its second ascent after 12 years by Eddie Cooper and Paul McArthur in April 1996. Eddie found it was not as desperate as expected with the gear, though small, seeming quite adequate for the grade. Both agreed that there were certainly harder routes now on the cliff than this, with Eddie finally admitting that some of his own routes may be undergraded in comparison. Ricky Bell and Ronan Browner did the third ascent on 24/06/06, after another 10 year gap. This is undoubtedly the classic E6 of the crag, a must for climbers who operate at the grade and hopefully Ricky's ascent is a precurser to its launch into a must do route. Ricky described it as: "the best E6 pitch I have ever done".
• Closing Time E6 (6c,6a): Got its first ethical ascent by Eddie Cooper on 6/08/03. The climbing is hard, but the gear is solid, so it is a good E6 to go for. Eddie didn't get it clean, so that kudos is still there for the taking.
  (Named after a Tom Waits song)

E7

• A Bad Skin Day E7 (6b): Two good pegs, protect the thin moves.

E8

• The Complete Scream E8 (6b): Ricky Bell added the first E8 to the crag on 20/08/2005. The Complete Scream is 58m of technical smears and long reaches, and begins with a 30m section protected only by a sling at 8m on a big flake that'd probably topple, then a poor peg placed on the lead and a hopeless sling that sits on a little knobble followed by two sky hooks taped down with duck tape, before a 10m run-out through the hardest climbing to a good rest and a good peg. It then continues up the 28m pitch of E6 (6b) climbing on the established line of Primal Scream.
  The line is an impressive one, up a massive impossible looking wall that strikes awe into anyone that gazes down it. The route was originally bolted by Gary Gibson many years ago, contrary to the ethics of the area and these were chopped very soon after by Calvin Torrans, the forerunner of Fair Head development. One offending bolt remained simply because Calvin didn't have the right tool at the time to remove it and it remained a blight on the crag until it was chopped a month before Ricky's ascent. If there ever was proof that bolting is not appropriate in certain locations, this successful ascent is it, as it has to rate as one of the most impressive hard routes around.

As you can see news on the harder routes is a bit scant. If you have any further relevant info please mail it in.

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