2004 News

In reverse order:

This photo is top notch. Our wee crag, from Kevin McGarry.
Simon Moore has been successful on a number of counts this month. Firstly, he produced an excellent article on Fair Head. Then he manages to get it published in On The Edge, which in fact turns out to be the final issue. Then, he manages to secure the ultimate prize of a front cover shot, and if that's not enough, best of all is that it's on the totally accessible, Midnight Cruiser. You did us and the crag proud there Simon, a mega effort, and the result speaks for itself. On The Edge, Issue 142, Nov '04.
Another season has flown in and it's time again for the AGM and slide show of Dal Riada Climbing Club. It's scheduled for 8.30pm in the House of McDonnell, the pub in Ballycastle, on Saturday 6th November. Everybody is invited to attend, present at the slide show and get stuck into the social gathering. A slide projector will be provided, so bring your slides along and show everyone what you've been up to, over the year. The club is actively seeking new members. Accommodation is provided in the club hut, Benvan, above Murlough Bay, or alternatively book into the Castle Hostel in Ballycastle, see the Visiting Info page, for details.
Kevin McGarry from Moyle District Council is making a promotional DVD, of the activities on offer in the area, such as angling, surfing, diving, etc. He is keen to feature climbers too, strutting their stuff at Fair Head and is looking for a couple of volunteers to star in the video and be filmed, climbing at the crag. He also intends to film from a helicopter, to show the crag off to it's full magnificence. If you're from the area, or you would like to get involved drop me a line, see the mail in info bit, at the bottom of the page.. I'll then put you in touch with Kevin and it can go from there. There's no dates fixed as yet.
Brian McAlinden, Niall Gault and Jojo Cousins went up on Saturday 8th October and Brian reports: "After the ending of my masters torture I managed to get up yesterday. Niall, Jojo and I did Burn Up. Niall had to go all 1950's with a sling harness, as he forgot his own - fair play to him as he led the second pitch. Lovely climbing especially since being cleaned. There was a little seepage on 2nd pitch but not too bad. Chilly on that side of the cliff. After that I went over and did Railroad - lovin' that climb. Did it as the sun went down - beautiful sunset. The rock had that utah'esque colour to it. It was really warm with sun on the back - could have done it in a T-shirt - it was roasting in fleece and thermal (certainly needed on burn-up). Great climb and thoroughly enjoyed. We got back to the car as it was just turning totally dark. Good day. Other stuff - Jp and Jonny Conroy went for Jolly Roger but conditions (cooollllld) got the best of them. There were some english friends over with Jonny and they did some stuff on the prow but not sure exactly. There should've been more people up, it was mega quiet. The main crag is definitely good for the afternoon - a couple of routes can definitely be done even in this weather, as the crag is in real good nick - ah well!"
Eddie Barbour went up to the crag on the 23rd Sept, with a new climber, Ryan Beggs. With Eddie on the pointy end, they did Girona, Midnight Cruiser (rainbreak), GBH, (rainbreak) and Fáth Mo Bhuartha. Eddie says: "All Fantastic though felt a hell of a lot easier than first time-especially GBH." So it is still possible to get a good day in despite our poor run of weather, the season's not over yet!
The staff of Greenhill YMCA had their first official staff visit to the head, on the 7th Sept. There were 6 members in the group and between them they notched up: Bramble, Dríodar na hAille, Los Molinos, Jungle Rock, The Black Theif, Balooba and Contortions. Michael Smith says: "A great day out was had by all and much was done in the way of getting sunburnt!"
The sun did come out again and a few raced up to make the most of it on Saturday 4th September. Brian McAlinden with John Paul Quinn did Mizen Star, with JP lapping up the first pitch and Brian taking the direct line on the second. Calvin Torrans, just back from the alps, climbing with Clare Sheriden did Titanic and Howard Hebblewaith did a spot of cleaning, though we've yet to find out what line.
The Jordanstonians made it up again, on Saturday 21st Aug. Sharon McGuigan says: "The weather was superb. Even though we arrived up after mid-day, we got a couple of routes done. I did Fáth Mo Bhuartha which was a lovely little route in excellent condition with a crux that I found quite pumpy - but nice. David Black then led Fireball, with a lack of big gear for the first few meters. It was quite interesting seeing him being eaten by the huge crack. Lots of little ledges, towards the top made this route really enjoyable, with a fantastic final bridgy move to move out over the overhang at the top. Kerrin then led The Black Thief. Coming back on the Sunday we were shunned by the crag as the rain approached but not before David successfully tackled Crib Pad Crack and found it to be less enjoyable than its neighbour Pangur Ban. Another excellent weekend at the head."
It's interesting to see not only what has been done this year, but also what hasn't. Like, has anyone done Darkness this year? Ray Hunt cleaned it on the 25th May and I don't thing anyone has been up it since. Or there's the crazy, The Doffer, it hasn't had an ascent for about 20 years, and Ray has cleaned it too. Also, The Offence, it took ages to clean, but no traffic. Loads of people have done The Brasser recently, but has anyone done The Wrestler at Marconis Cove? It's a similar, jamming test piece of the highest quality. Geoff Somerville took a wonderfull series of whippers off it, during 2 ascents in 2001. Fun, fun, fun. As for An Gobán Soar, it's a bit grubby, but it never stopped anyone before, and has a brilliant last pitch. Then if we go up the grades a bit, Pyrrhic Victory, Slittery Slat, The X Men, The Kerb, Candy Kisses, Back to the Future 8, Power Play, Born to Run, all seeing no visitors, or maybe they have? There's a thread started on the message board for comments.
Sharon McGuigan, Guio Garcia and Kerrin Young, were on Dearg Doom on Sat 14th August and Sharon says: "It was a bit green around the bottom but the top two pitches do make up for it, with some really nice moves around an overhang on the 2nd pitch and some good jamming on the third pitch, through a large crack with solid jammed blocks. David Black is our clubs young climber of the future recently bagging his first E1 - Midnight Cruiser and following it up this weekend with Mongral Fox - I found it a fantastic route to second, lots of excellent positions - bridging, jamming, crimps, the obligatory overhang - the recipe for a perfect climb." Sharon's also been telling me she's now ticking off those E1's big time. So far she's racked up Aoife, Railroad, all be it with a minor deviation, and April. As for April, Sharon says: "I feel it's pretty low in the grade compared to some of the other E1's knocking about."
Patrick Taggart and Ray Hunt went to the Prow for a session on the same day. Patrick lead Fireball and says: "I finally made it to the top after quite a battle and I had to have a second go at the bulging crack near the top, having forgotten Ray's advice to bridge it on my first attempt. On topping out I went straight past the belay and on up to my ruck sack to for fluids, never mind belaying Ray. I was wrecked. " Ray then lead The Embankment and Patrick says he made it look easy.
Mark McGladdery and Colin Brennan did battle with Cúchulainn on Sat the 14th August. Mark says: "What a beating we took !! We found the top pitches very steep and hard - needed lots of rests - we just ain't fit enough !! But we'll definitely be back..."
John Paul Quinn tells us: "There were about 15 people or so up on Sat the 14th. The place was looking busy enough. Myself and Grainne headed down to jump on The Brasser, and I have to say I didn't care much for the website description; The Brasser E2 (5c,5a): Beautiful jamming on the first pitch, with gear on demand. A short but great thin crack on the second. This made is sound like a pleasant outing, in particular I was drawn to the "beautiful jamming" description, man what kinda animals are you people? I have to say, I found, sketchy laybacking predominates on the first pitch!! I now know why the rock is brown in that area! Sure there are great jams, but they're only about 5 metres of the route! Saying that, I totally enjoyed the experience and it is indeed a great route, though quite probably the hardest pitch I've been on yet, I'm thinking it might be slightly harder than Cúchulainn but the difficulties are much much shorter.
Sam Gordon has put the effort in recently, by cleaning Mainstream in the Grey Mans Path. The cracks had been full of mud and grass but it's now all gone. It's mint again.
Dave Miller made it back to the crag, climbing with Geoff somerville on 11th August. Dave's been focusing his attention on Donegal recently, doing a spot of development work in the area. He was up for an easy day back at the crag, and Toby Jug was chosen to get going on. Geoff got the top pitch and says: "That pitch is hard and steep and awkward and I'd was well pumped by the top." After that, Dave was chomping at the bit and as he hadn't done Doldrum, and Geoff had a friend 6 in the bag, it was next. Dave led the second pitch and says: "Awe man, that's Fair Head all right, just keeps coming, stonking climbing, with that funky wee bit in the middle." At the top the sun was still beaming down and the arms weren't totally knackered, so off it was for The Brasser. Geoff led the first pitch and says: "After wing-ing of the top pitch a while back, I had to get back on for more. The first pitch is a jam fest of the highest quality on immaculate rock. It gets progressively easier as the crack widens, though I still needed one rest, but how could I be dissapointed when the climbing was so good." A quality day out.
Saturday 7th August. A very busy day. Richard Baker saw teams on Hurricane, April, Aoife, Midnight Cruiser, Railroad and Mongral Fox. Ciaran Kinney, Mark Stevenson and Richard, did Blind Pew, Mark getting the 5b 1st pitch, and Richard getting the gem of the second pitch. Mark then led Railroad. On the same day, Mark McGladdery and Colin Brennan, did Titanic.
Eddie Barbour's done it this time, moving up yet another grade into the big E6 bracket on Paralysed Power at E6 (6b). Eddie was climbing with Sam Gordon on the 4th August and Eddie says: "It's awesome and really pumpy, the first non-Eddie Cooper ascent too. It eats micro nuts up, an amazing route at E6 6b! It's awesome!!!" I guess that means Eddie is one of the big boys now, never mind just playing with them! He had seconded Eddie Cooper twice on it on the 4th June, discovering that day that he had what it takes to push it to the big E6 grade. Fair Head E6 that is. Something else, eh!
Geoff Somerville finally got the big pitch experience under his belt doing Equinox in a oner on Monday 2nd August, with Eddie Barbour. Geoff says: "We only had 50m ropes with us, so we expected to be doing a short bit of simul-climbing but it turned out it's just about manageable with the 50's. Good to know for again. Equinox just about makes it into the mega pitch category, I'd recommend it to anyone, especially as it avoids the uncomfortable belay. The weather went a bit strange after so we didn't get any more routes in, though Eddie did a bit of wire brushing elsewhere." Watch this space.
Eddie Barbour made it up on Sunday with Duncan Haliday and they did Hallowe'en with Ed leading all the pitches. He reckons its a good spot on at the grade E4 and brilliant at that.
There was a right crowd up at on Saturday the 31st. Paul Swail was up with Ricky Bell, Ali Wilson and Craig Hiller. Paul and Craig did the first pitch of The Wall of Prey for the video camera, with Paul leading. That was also Craigs first route at Fair Head. Get straight in there Craig. Paul says: "The route was utterly fantastic." We gotta get a clip of that video on the site. JP Quinn and Grainne O'Brien did Hurricane with Grainne leading the top pitch, her first E2 lead at the head. Sharon McGuigan is also back after her broken wrist has finally repaired itself. Sharon also has broken into The Magic Grade for a clean lead of Aoife. Sharon says: "I really enjoyed the airy feeling of moving from under the overhang, around a class flake to begin what I've heard was the crux of the route - a couple of meters of jamming. - Not being blessed with jamtastic mitts I found that there were lots of side pulls hidden in the crack and large crimps that were excellent so I didn't really have to jam at all." Well done Shazzer, good one. Tim Wilson And Geoff Somerville headed to the Prow to snatch a short fitness session on Fireball, Railroad and Midnight Cruiser. Tim Hodnett and party, on there first visit to the head, did Bramble, Driodar na hAille, Black Thief and Stone Mad then went home because they were knackered. That sounds about right.
Eddie Barbour was up with Philip Marken on the 30th. Eddie the first pitch of Face Value then lowered out to allow Philips' wee bro. and co. to do some easier stuff.
On the 27th Eddie B found a couple of nuts and krabs on Track of the Cat. If they're yours email him to get them back.
Eddie Barbour has bagged the second ascent of Marconi's Arête E4/5 (6a) at the Prow on Monday 26th July. This was a line that everyone thought would sit for years before anyone even had a look at it. Up strolls Eddie, aye, that looks good, away he goes, six bits of gear later he's at the top. As for the grade Eddie says: "Its not quite hard enough to be E5, I think, but it was way scarier than any of the E4's I've ever done so would say Eddie C's grade is probably accurate. The technical grade is definitely right with 6a moves off the ground." Eddie B also recently soloed Elvis at Muckross. Way to go Eddie.
Blade Runner and Ocean Boulevard were cleaned on 26/07/04. Blade Runner looks like a great route but without an obvious belay, it'd be a good candidate for conversion to a mega single pitch route. Ocean Boulevard had been suffering from soil and ferns clogging up the finger crack on the first pitch. This has been removed but it still looks a very hard pitch, steep and sustained with no foot holds.
Richard Baker and Ciaran Kinney did April on Wed 21st July, stepping right to finish on the right wall. Richard Says: "In my opinion it is another quality route - being technical and delicate. It is interesting that despite it's easy access, during this year I have not been aware of April receiving many ascents (if any). For the grade I thought it was a tough little route - a couple a really thought provoking moves. Although it took longer than a route of it's length should, I did achieve a clean lead."
Mike Mataisek and Geoff Somerville got back to reclaim Mikes hex from Conchubair on Monday the 19th July. Mike had left the hex behind after Brian McAlinden went head over tits from the top of the approach scramble the previous weekend. I shudder at the thought. Brian was sort of OK though, thankfully, though it did rather spoil his day. Mike led the hard second pitch and says: "It just doesn't let up until the top, the last move indeed being particuarily hairy, lovely climbing all the way." Afterwards I led Railroad, gosh, I need to get fit again.
Clare Sheridan and Stephen Gallwey were back at the Head last weekend, after a gap of 22 years for Stephen. Clare says: "On Sat 17th, we did Dark Forces -a brilliant route with the first two pitches giving great climbing on immaculate rock, both very different and not much between them in grade.The short top pitch is manky but overall it's a superb line with a big route feel." On Sunday 18th, Stephen got washed off Track of the Cat and that was it for the day due to downpours.

Mike Mataisek and Brian McAlinden made it up on Sat 17th July and Brian says: " Mike and I did Ocean Boulevard - Mike led both pitches. Both pitches need a clean - it could be one of the best E3's on the crag except for the green - we both did some cleaning while climbing it. The first pitch is super sustained 5c - the crack is green in the back of it and needs a going over with one of those toilet wire brushes. The arête to the right is also lichen covered and if clean would make it a little easier as you have to be careful with placing your feet on it, though saying that you can do it as is. 2nd Pitch - we did a variation - going left to sloping ledges - hard 5b/5c, with a nice pendulum possible if you fall. Top out is again green and fair play to Mike for doing it - very tricky and very green." JP Quinn and Tim Colgan did The Brat before being scared off by the oncoming showers.
Simon Moore et al, namely Ben Heason and James Pearson also made it back to the crag over the 10th weekend for quite the hard core visit. Simon bagged the third ascent of the Arête right of Hell's Kitchen (Eddies still thinking about a name for it). Not to be out done Ben followed with the 4th ascent and they confirm the grade is sound at E6 (6a). James stepped up to the mark and bagged the second ascent of Primal Scream E6 (6b), the line to the left of Blind Pew that has waited for 12 years for another climber with the talent and balls to tackle it. Simon just described it as "nuts". Looking at it that from Blind Pew or from the top of the crag, that seems pretty evident. Simon also on-sighted Rusty Halo E4 (6a) and says: "It was clean as a whistle when I got there, so didn't need to ab it to clean it which was nice. I think that its desperate and pumpy, but worth 5 stars (and certainly not low in the grade). We also did some other stuff of less importance (including the Wall of Prey for a few photos)."
Last weekend saw the hut packed, with 10 from Belfast (one of which was only a few months old) and 7 from the south. Brian says it was great to see and especially as no cars parked at the cattle grid. Loads of routes were done as follows:
Thu 8 th
Eddie Barbour and Sam Gordon: Track of the Cat. Eddie Says: " Was top quality, worth every star, recommend it to all. We also set up a slack line between two rock outcrops and I'm now mad keen to set one across the greymans..."
Fri 9 th
Colm Kelly and Jp Quinn: Toby Jug.
Sat 10 th
Graine O'Brien & Daire Owens: Pangar Ban, Faith Mo Buartha and Midnight Cruiser.
Kevin Power, Howard Hebblewaith, Sean O'Driscoll: Blade Runner, Track of the Cat and Visual Contact. What an outing!
Claire Sheridan & Stephen Galloway: Hurricane and Toby Jug.
Brian McAlinden and Gustau Catalan: Chieftain, (Gus's first lead on the head in 2 years, he has been in Majorca), Fireball (Brian) - excellent - loved the whole climb, up there with Railroad, Marconi (Brian) - lovely route - felt it a little soft in the grade but Eddie B is on the other side of that argument - I think 'thoughtful feet' is the best way to describe the crux.
Mike Mateisek and Sandrine Journet: Girona and Roaring Meg.
Niall Gault and Joanne Cousins: Hells Kitchen.
Tim Wilson and Paul Smith: Burn Up.
Sun 11 th
Graine O'Brien & Daire Owens: Burn Up and December.
Kevin Power, Howard Hebblewaith, Sean O'Driscoll: The Wall of Prey, The Mask and Railroad. Another day and a half!
Claire Sheridan & Stephen Galloway: Concubair and Blind Pew.
Brian McAlinden and Mike : Mizen Star - Brian says: "My 3rd time leading the 2nd pitch & I think the 3rd way of doing that start. Mike loved the pitch. We then went over to do Conchubair but where thwarted by that scramble to the base. I took a fairly nasty fall and was lucky to walk away with scrapes and bruises - That scramble is lethal! Mike left a Hex at the base of the route as he used it to abseil back down to make sure I was ok. After a few hours dusting myself down - we headed over and took a number of whippers off GBH -Im down to 2 now so the clean lead is coming - christ that route is hard!"
Niall & Gus: Blind Pew and Mizen Star - Gus just loved the first pitch of Mizen Star.
Mon 12th
Brian McAlinden and Mike: Toby Jug Brian says; "There's some loose stuff on it. The 2nd Pitch is best described as 'awkward' and I think the first pitch is closer to 5b than 5a."
Gus and Niall: Gus led Railroad and Niall led Midnight Cruiser.
Ciaran Kinney says: "There's been a major rock fall at Farrangandoo. To the right of Pangur Ban routes 313 to 315 are now erased or are too dangerous to be on right now. A whole pillar has detached itself from the face and there are still a few large boulders perched precariously. If anyone had been bellow Alleycat at the time they would have been wiped out. Thankfully Pangur Ban is ok." The main route effected was Samson. It's gone.
Despite the showers, Eddie Barbours' been at it again and following Ronnie's example, led Blade Runner in one pitch on Monday 28th June. He says it needs cleaned to deserve it's two star status but otherwise is a great route. Eddie was climbing with John McConville.
Ali Moles was up at the head the other evening and spotted these two statues. He was wondering if anybody would know where they originated from, or what they are. Were they put up in remembrance for the Spanish Armada?

Former Fair Head addict Dave Hollinger made it back with three mates from Plas y Brenin after a few years away from the crag. Dave says: "The scores on the doors were; Mizen Star, Cúchulainn, Face Value (Me and Tim Neil - another Ulster exile!), Blind Pew, Mizen Star, Hell's Kitchen and Run Fast Run Free. (Stu McAleese and Desiree Wilson). Next day, Stu and Tim did The Wall of Prey (crux needed a couple of goes!) and me and Desiree did Aoife before finishing the trip off with Thunderhips and Marconi. All in all I think we have another three converts to the best crag in the world!! I'll be taking bookings for the next trip over soon...."
Now, for some crazy news. Eddie Barbour has done Jolly Roger in one pitch, climbing with Jamie Egnar, on Monday 21st June. Yup, you read that right, that was Jolly Roger in one pitch, unheard off. Right guys, we've gotta deal with him, he's making us all look like novices. E5 in his year of trad climbing is bad enough, and now this, for pete's sake he's supposed to spend a few years climbing E1's first, then maybe a tentative E2 and so on, his programming must be all wrong. Good one Eddie, most impressive. Afterwards, Eddie jumped the Grey mans path. I know, what?
Brian McAlinden and Niall Gault went up and did Cúchulainn on Saturday 19th June. Brian says: "Lovely route with the second pitch best described as "aaargghhh, ugggghhhhh" - strenous indeed. Not a route for someone with thin arms. The day went well - no rain on us, though I did see a shower pass off Ballycastle as I belayed after the 2nd pitch - so we where lucky. The wind wasn't too bad but the temps where around mid-march level and its the first time for a while that I had cold hands. We had the whole crag to ourselves as well - didn't see one other climbing car at the crag the whole day - a strange occurrence these days."
Ali Wilson, has done the 3rd or it might be the 4th ascent of Deadly Pursuit E5 (6b) in the Grey Man's Path, on Saturday 19th June. Paul Dunlop did the second ascent a good few years back and Keith Murphy might have done it too but no-one is sure.
The Fence was re-cleaned and inspected on Wed 16th June. Any loose material has now been removed but more could develop. There has been no movement at all, but with the loose blocks now missing from behind a small piller below the overhang, it all has a bit of a "defying gravity" look about it, there's a lot of air in there behind that pillar. It's been that way for years but it does look like the whole lot could come down at any time. Be advised.
The cleaning of The Offence has been finished. This route has literally been unearthed again, it was totally overgrown. Please get onto it to make the effort worthwhile.
Eddie Barbour has upped his grade another notch, by leading The Wall of Prey, with Andy Marshall on Wed 16th June. As Eddie cruised up the second pitch, imagine the situation, he's just lead the big E5 of the crag, chuffed to bits and grinning like a cheshire cat, then shouts up; "Can I go and play with the big boys now?" Very entertaining indeed. They also took Jamie McDowell, a newcomer to the crag, up Girona.
On Tuesday 15th June Ricky Bell got his lead of the year in, by doing the second ascent of Eddie's new route up the Arête of Hell's Kitchen. Ricky confirms the grade at E5/6 (6a/6b), climbing with Ali Moles. It's not often Eddie's new routes get a repeat as quick as that, it's gotta be a record for a route of that seriousness. Ricky says, "The move on the arete....mental mental chicken oriental!"
On Monday 14th June, Ray Hunt and Geoff Somerville headed up and did the wonderful Burn Up and December, a most pleasant outing. In the evening, Brian McAlinden bagged his first E3 at Fair Head by leading the first pitch of Jolly Roger, so is a happy boyo indeed. Brian was climbing with Tim Wilson, Tim getting the second pitch.
Kevin Power has emailed in, to update us all on the weekends activity;
Just a quick note on activity in the head over the weekend. There was a good sized gang scattered around the head on Saturday12th June. Jordanstown mountaineering club were up in force climbing around the Ballycastle decent, knocking off the classic VS routes. Over at the Prow were Stephen McMullan and Grainne O'Brien. After starting on The Fence, Grainne stepped up and flashed Midnight Cruiser. Not to be outdone Stephen then went for it on Railroad. He got some good air time in when he came off at the overhang, sending Grainne running up the bottom slab towards him. They then did The Black Thief. On the other side of the crag, Simon Carr and I started on Hurricane and were sitting in the sun at the top of the Grey Man's Path when up pops Ali Moles sporting Ice Axe, ski goggles and various brushes. Ali had just finished his mammoth task of cleaning Hallowe'en and it was now in pristine condition. Ali filled us in on all the recent happenings in the head and kindly offered the use of his ab-rope which was still in-situ. Simon Carr and I abbed down Hallowe'en and couldn't resist the temptation to do it, it was immaculate, every little edge has been scrubbed clean. The second pitch is at least 45m long and is one of the most striking lines I've seen in Fair Head. The first pitch is very committing, after stepping off a flake on to the face you have to make a few moves up and left on small edges above a hole filled with boulders. Once the first good bit of gear is in, then the pressure is off as there is gear on demand from here to the top of the route. The second pitch is by far the best that I've done in Fair Head, a good mixture of face climbing and layaways and the odd jam thrown in to remind you where you are. The pitch is steady all the way with plenty of half rests until near the top when it steps up a notch just to test you when you're tired. I'd recommend the route to anyone who is climbs 6a, has a good supply of quickdraws and large nuts and who has stamina to burn. At the same time as we were on Hallowe'en, Calvin Torrans and Claire Sheridan did Jolly Roger, another classic with a long taxing second pitch. Clare says; "As good as ever- two superb pitches though Calvin did pull off a few blocks below the initial overhang."
On Sunday 13th June, Simon Carr and Kevin Power did Mizen Star and Grainne O'Brien flashed Crib Pad Crack, climbing with Stephen McMullan. Ian Chestnut, Paul McGarrity and Ciaran Kinney did Creeper. Ciaran says; "It was manking. Really dirty. Again I have to reiterate that it needs major cleaning. Be warned."
Calvin and Clare headed over for Hallowe'en and Clare says; " Calvin did the first pitch (sharp 5c) and I had a go at the 2nd. After nearly 40m of sustained 5c with some 6a moves I was running out of steam with no sign of a rest coming up in the last thin section and decided to abseil off. We could probably drop the "Reasonable for the grade" from the guide, Hallowe'en may be well protected but there are easier E4s around." The Jordanstown gang were also milling about somewhere.

Ali Moles has made another fine contribution to the climbing at Fair Head, by cleaning Hallowe'en. He says it looks totally fantastic and Eddies variation finish also looks mega. Two teams have done it already, see above.
Some late news in is that Eddie Cooper has freed Paralyzed Power at E6 (6b) in the Grey Man's Path on Friday 4th June. The route was first led by Eddie in May '96 and must rank as one of the hardest pitches at Fair Head.
Calvin Torrans and Clare Sheridan went back on Monday 7th May when the sun eventually came out to finish Salango. Clare did the main pitch and they finished up with The Brasser. Howard Hebblethwaite and Terry O'Neill did Buttons and Bows and reckons it was scary with all those tiny RPs. Dave Craig and Sheila Daly did Mizen Star and Sandpiper, they had things to say about top pitch of Sandpiper. The description for it in the guide; "6m. Climb the crack - difficult," doesn't quite prepare you for the; "Sprachle up the big fat chimney with crap holds, little protection, and no-way is it 6m."
Andy Marshall and Eddie Barbour had a good day on Sunday 6th June, doing Cuchulainn in zero visibility from a heavy sea mist. Andy led the first and third pitch and Eddie the second. Calvin Torrans was hot on their tails with Clare Sheridan, coming up the first pitch, as Eddie led the second. Eddie and Andy then did Run Fast Run Free, with Eddie blasting the route without a second thought. Calvin then headed over to do Salango, but got washed off the start. Patrick Taggart, Roisin Mallon and Ray Hunt did Toby Jug.
Eddie Barbour has upped the ante by moving into the E4 grade leading Mainstream E4 (6a), with Eddie Cooper on Friday 4th June. Eddie says:"The crux is ok and it was slighty damp. The route is now fairly clean as I abseiled in to clean it, but I only had a nut key and a wire brush so there are still some fern roots left at the top. These could be quickly removed using right equipment. I loved the climbing, the crux was ok. It's quite low but was a bit damp so I couldn't bridge it which might make it easier. I reckon it could be easily cleaned completely if someone does it soon but ferns will prob come back. All that needs to be done is to remove the fern roots at the top and then give the crux a brush. It was the hardest E4 I've ever done. It was also the easiest!"
The news from the weekend (29th May) is that Ali Wilson and Ali Moles, beat Eddie Barbour in their race for the 2nd second ascent of Flashover at Farrangandoo. Ali says it's low in the grade but probably just about earns it. I'd say it's harder than Crib Pad Crack Direct or Run Fast Run Free which both are graded E3 (6a), but then who am I to say. Ali disagrees. Ali says there's still some loose material in the gully, so it'd be wise to wear a helmet. Eddie Barbour ventured over with Duncan Haliday and they did Salango. Eddie says; " Salango was a tad Brutal. I only just had enough left to campus the final moves just after the layaway. It was the first time I ever climbed in just a T-shirt. The sun was beaming down. Lush! I was sweating profusely caused, partially due to heat, though mostly fear. Face value is next." Duncan also lost three quick draws, they fell out of his bag or he left them sitting somewhere, if anyone finds them drop me a line.
Eddie Cooper has opened up yet another old classic by cleaning Track of The Cat on Sat 29th May. There's no excuse now. Gulp!
On Thurs 27th May, Brian McAlinden and Tim Wilson headed up. Brian led The Embankment and Tim led GBH.
Alan Blair cleaned December on Wed 26th May. The second pitch had been suffering from big swards of grass, more suitable for the Serengetti rather than this route. December, if combined with Alan's other recent contribution, the clean up of Burn Up, is all you need for a pleasant day at that side of the crag. Both routes are excellent must do routes. December can easily be accessed using a 60m abseil, which will drop you in, bang on the start of the route. Various large hexed required to set it up. It's easier to walk down the gully for Burn Up.
Ray Hunt cleaned Darkness on Tues 25th May. This fantastic line should be on everyone's list. E1 doesn't come any more sustained. It is at the top of the grade and is a full on finger crack that doesn't disappoint. Phyrric Victory is a route of a similar nature, just around the corner at E2.
Some safety advice has been added to the website, the link to it is from the top Navigation bar.
Andy Marshall and Ali Moles made it up on Tuesday 26th May for blue skys and no wind. Andy led Midnight Cruiser before Ali led The Embankment.
Ali Wilson has brought another route back into life by cleaning Candy Kisses in a four hour stint on Sunday 23rd May. Great news indeed. On the same day Andy Marshall and Ali Moles did Mizen Star with Andy leading the first pitch and Ali the second. Richard Baker and Ciaran Kinney did Hell's Kitchen and Richard says: "This again (this is getting boring) lived up to it's 3*** status. After the hectic activity of the last few weeks, the place did feel quiet - nice and quiet. As for Hell's kitchen, brilliant route, great moves (definitely 5a), albeit with slightly spaced gear."

Saturday 23rd May saw another fantastic days sunshine with a good few teams on the crag. Seven of us headed over to Binnagapple, and abseiled in using the boulder above Toby Jug. Ronnie Smith, climbing with Colin Wright, went for it on Blade Runner doing the route in one massive pitch. A most impressive lead. They also did Toby Jug. Brian McAlinden led Sandpiper, doing the route as a three with Sandrine Journet and Niall Gault. Tim Wilson and Geoff Somerville did The Brasser, Jolly Roger and then headed over to the Prow for The Embankment. Brian, Sandrine and Niall also headed over for the sunshine on Aoife. Sandrine's now got into the trad thing well, leading the top pitch. On the Prow there was a crowd up from Dublin where they did a good few of the E1's. The one mega pitch phenomenon has taken off; Ali Wilson did Titanic in a oner, with Ali Moles. Ali W says: "That was extra good fun because we didn't plan to do it so just had a standard rack...big runouts!". At one point there were climbers on Hell's Kitchen, Aoife, Girona and Chieftain all at the same time. Fair Head looked more like a sports crag in the south of France, man it was hot, blazing hot, shear bliss.
Eddie Cooper has put up yet another new line on Friday 21st May. It follows the bold Arête on the right of Hell's Kitchen. Ali Moles seconded Eddie on the route and says the climbing is really top quality and just fantastic. It goes at only E5/6 but looks way harder. The route starts from the belay on Hells Kitchen, traverses out to the arête and then up. It's a cutting edge line that will be admired by everyone who does Hells Kitchen from now on. The route description plus Eddies other new route at the Prow are now on the New Routes Page.
The clean up of Fair Head continues with Burn Up, cleaned on Friday 21st May by Alan Blair. Burn Up is the undisputed best HVS at Fair Head. The first pitch is long and used to suffer from a grubby 20m section at the start. The 2nd and 3rd pitch are better if run together. With this now clean the route will be shear joy. The belay seat at the top of the first pitch is a place of beauty, best belay at Fair Head. If you haven't cleaned a route yet, please consider it, putting something back into the sport and the renewal of the crag is just as rewarding as a days climbing. See the cleaning page.
NOTE: The Fence is still in a dangerous condition, it is unstable and requires an inspection on abseil. There are more loose blocks. It would be advised to stay away from it or abseil and check it thoroughly first.
A thread has been started on the message board to allow everyone to send there regards to Claudia, the Austrian girl who was injured on Saturday.
Ross Jones says: "We're just back after a great three day trip. A party of nine mainly Edinburgh based climbers had a fantastic climb over the weekend - even better as last year's trip at the same time saw our trip disrupted by rain and only a damp Sandpiper and The Fence climbed. Saturday saw a party on Hurricane, another on Toby Jug, two parties on Doldrum (one of which lacked any reassuring large friends for the second pitch but we live to tell the tale!!), two on Burn Up and another on December. Sunday saw a couple of parties on the following: Hell's Kitchen, Girona and An Bealach Runda and another on Hellfire ?? and Railroad. Monday and a shorter day before heading home with a couple of parties on Railroad, Midnight Cruiser and Black Thief, and another on The Embankment and another on Fath Mo Bhuartha. We'll be back for more....."
The weekend of the 15th May was hectic, the weather was amazing and the place was bunged. This was without a doubt the biggest influx of climbers the crag has witnessed in a very long time, the place was packed. The points made above are so important for the summer ahead.
The big news of the weekend is that Ali Moles and Ali Wilson did the second ascent of Silent Running at E4 (5c). This route has waited it's second ascent since 1986 - 18 years! Ali Wilson says: "The route was a serious undertaking, but well worthwhile for the climbing, which is good fun. The arête climbing gives a slightly different type of route which is nice. The gear is quite good but quite well spaced. Anyone doing the route should get some of the new thin Mammot slings as there are two good flake runners at about 1/3 and 2/3 height. Other than that....you just don't fall off. The technical grade of the route is about right. The moves are never desperate, and there is no very distinct crux. I must say that Ali (Moles) climbed it beautifully, excellent composure. The top pitch is as for drag race queen, which I did. It's a bit scruffy, but good value for E1 5b. If you were just interested in the top pitch, you should ab in and give it a bit of a polish!!!"

Tim Wilson and Geoff Somerville did Cuchulainn; "A line I've had my eye on for a long time but never felt ready for it. On Sat all the pieces were in place and it was so worth the wait. It is without a doubt one of the best routes I have ever experienced, sustained E2 climbing at the highest level and in the most amazing positions. I can understand now why it is regarded as one of the best lines in Britain, how could it get any better than that? It's on our local crag too, man we have it all, Calvin, we salute you." Afterwards they did Midnight Cruiser.

Eddie Cooper and Martin Manson did Talking Heads. Eddie cleaned it on the way down too, so it's ready to go for the rest of the summer.

JP Quinn and Jonny Conroy did Titanic. JP says: "I had the luck of tackling the bulge pitch, didn't think I was getting up it - I had to tug on a size 3.5 camalot to get started - ended up shoulder jamming with my feet dangling in free air, only in fairhead I guess! - the rest of the pitch is steep and sustained too!"

The dark side of the Prow got a look in, with Mongrel Fox seeing two ascents by Mike Matiasek/Sandrine Journet and Terry O'Neill/Kevin Byrne. As for the other 30 or so people at the crag I dunno what you all got up. It'd be good to hear about the bigger routes that were done. Also use the message board to chat or update info about the routes, it's a good way to get it on faster.
On sunday the 16th May there was another very busy day at the crag. Ali Wilson and Ricky Bell did the first pitch of Buttons and Bows. Ali says: " A fantastic pitch, I really enjoyed it. It is quite a serious route, the gear being quite small RPs throughout. I felt the crux was lower down near the top of the first groove; it certainly felt that way because the gear at that point is pretty poor and I was feelin the fear! Molesy agreed, but Ricky thought it was at the end of the traverse, just entering the groove, which is also a tricky move. All told a fantastic route. I would recommend it to anyone, but do take care with the gear. Also, it is the type of rock where wee crimpy holds will sometimes pull off, but you can spot them a mile off, so keep your eyes open, and don't use them! The top pitch looks really scruffy, we didn't do it. I have concerns that some of the holds on the roof might be loose, so if you plan on doing the top roof, then do have a quick look at it on ab before hand." There's always two sides to every story, Ricky Bell tells it slightly differently: "It was Ali's lead so he got the good pitch (turned out to be the only pitch as we abbed - top pitch needs cleaned) he roped up, climbed the corner, stepped into the groove and made a couple of thin moves up to a cruxy move. He went very quiet for a while (very unusual for Ali) the next time I looked up slightly concerned has to how he was doing, and......he had one boot in his hand waving it around while wiggling his foot!!!! pins and needles he's shouted down. I just laughed away to myself. A thin move later he moved onto the 'bold' traverse. I looked up again and he had it off again!!!!!! so funny!!! you don't take your boots of on climbs nevermind on bold ones!!! haha. Anyway, he cruised the rest. molesy then abbed in to join us."
Sandrine Journet and Mike Matiasek headed over to Binnagapple and Sandrine got her first HVS lead on December. Going well there Sandrine, you'll be hitting the Magic Grade soon. They then did Hurricane and they loved it.

The bad news from the weekend was a bad accident at the Prow requiring a helicopter rescue. Ray Hunt witnessed the event and describes what happened. "We were on Good Morning Judge and there were also climbers on The Fence, Fath mo Bhurtha, and further round on Contractions. Claudia, who was part of a group from Galway, was sitting well back from from the crag, not belaying, just enjoying the scene. A block about the size of a toaster came flying from The Fence, bounced, and struck her, on the side of her rib cage. She screamed, and slid down the slope, coming to a halt, silent and motionless. Very quickly people arrived and did all the right things, help was summoned, she was covered, but not moved. Fortunately one of her party was a medic, who assisted as soon as she could get down. After around 30 minutes a team of rescuers arrived comprising the Coastguard Cliff Rescue, an Ambulance with Paramedics, and the PSNI. About 45 minutes later the chopper arrived and took off taking the woman to Antrim General Hospital with suspected spinal injuries. It was a shocking reminder of how quickly life can change, and how dangerous our sport can be."
Lost: On Sunday the 16th Kevin Byrne says: "... in all the to-ings and fro-ings I came away minus a Hex on wire (no.5 I think) with yellow tape. lf anyone finds it could you please email me." Email Kevin, click here.
On Friday 14th May, John Heron and Tim Wilson did Face Value. John led the top pitch and Tim the first. They also did Girona. Eddie Barbour and Geoff Somerville did Equinox, Run Fast Run Free and Crip Pad Crack Direct. A fun outing indeed. Run Fast Run free is a good line, with the hard climbing concentrated into the first 10m, but the gear is good. It eats the smallest cams so double them up and also bring double small nuts.
Paul McArthur recently got a cam stuck on the first pitch of Blind Pew, if any one can retrieve it could you let Paul know. He promises to buy you a few pints.
A meet was held at the crag on the 24th May 2004. Read about it here, 11 photos included.
7th May. Eddie Cooper added a New Route to the Prow today, by climbing the arête on the left of Marconi and then finishing up Marconi itself. Details to follow, suffice to say it's well hard, and a bit on the bold side too. Eddie did say there's a good runner at about 50 feet, so it's not that bad. Afterwards Eddie, climbing with Mark Rocks, did GBH to finish off on. Mark Rocks says: "Climbing with Eddie today feels like I've been hit by a truck." Meanwhile Ray Hunt and Geoff Somerville headed over and abseiled in for a less demanding day on An Bealach Runda. In the evening Jonny Conroy, Brian McAlinden and John Paul Quinn arrived for an evening session when they did Pangur Ban.
Dominic Douglas says: "There's a large boulder sitting in the middle of a large chunk of grass about 10 minutes walk from the bottom of the grey mans path (to the left) - this has an overhanging arête and and an overhanging face with possibilities - the landing is good so would be a good place to look for highball boulder problems."
Eddie Barbour says: " Just thought I'd fill ya all in on the progress so far at the head this year. I've been up about five times so far and the lead of the year so far was definitely Marconi (24th April). It was so cool. The crux, awesome. Does anybody else do the crux using a two finger tip crimp out on the right? I was gonna try and do it all technical but I started to get tired trying to figure out where to put my feet and just hauled ass of the crimp. It was Jamie Egnors first time on the head and he loved it. We also did Aiofe which was unbelievable as well- once you get past that first slab at the bottom which was pretty damn slippy 'cause it was wet. I did Hells kitchen and Aiofe again with Andy Marshall- I did the top pitches and he did the bottom ones (28th April). I liked the bottom pitch of Aiofe so much which is why I went back and led it with Jamie. Was out again on the 3rd May and after seconding Jonathon Gibson (aka Gibby aka ginger Jonny) up Fireball (his first lead at Fair Head) it was so cold we went bouldering. Did Chipper on "The Whale" and then generally pissed about but I also did a problem on the boulder with the photo of Boydo on it. It's to the left of the project but it was harder than chipper for sure. I spent ages on it and only got it once. It's well hard. Titanic is next on the list."
Rockfall: There has been a MONSTER! rockfall to the right of the Grey Mans Path - (Right of Jolly Roger, Toby Jug etc, looking up at the crag) It was a part of the headland that has been subsiding for years and just detached itself recently - probably thousands of tonnes of rock. No routes affected however it poses a danger to those travelling below it as it is now really unstable with lots of loose blocks about the size of a small family car just teetering in a crack.
On Sunday 2nd May there were a dozen climbers at the crag despite a rainy start and extensive fog covering the crag in the morning. But the rock was dry and Anne-Marie McDevitt had her first days climbing at Fair Head climbing Chieftain with Patrick Taggart. Brian McAlinden, Sandrine Journet and Jonny Conroy did Hell's Kitchen.
Rathlin Wall came alive again on Saturday 1st May. There were 15 people in all at the crag. Tim Wilson and John Heron did the fantastic Titanic as well as Mizen Star, while Ali Wilson and Ali Moles abbed in for the top pitch of Flying Lizards. Ali Moles says: "Just one or two comments, a fantastic route but undoubtedly easier if you are taller. I aided the roof in my despair to do the brutal move. About 4c if you are big Tim's height. It is a bit scruffy but not so much so that it affects the route. When I say scruffy there is some grass on the route. I also thought it was sustained but great climbing." Brian McAlinden, Jonny Conroy and JP Quinn were on Equinox. Brian says; " Equinox was really nice - thought the first pitch was the nicer with a funky crux. Took a nice 20ft'er after the crux - right foot popped off and away I went - silly mistake. The belay is 'interesting' but not as bad as I had heard. The second pitch I thought was rather 'gruesome' - especially that offwidth part after the belay- very awkward. Jonny Conroy seconded me up the route." Ciaran Kinney and Ian Chestnut did Girona and a session on the Prow. Paul McArthur made it back to the crag with Dave Hamil and they enjoyed Blind Pew. Paul provided all the news on Fair Head and Irish Climbing in general for many years. His truly excellent web site (now gone) had succeeded Paul's Magazine - rock climber - both of these were the main source for info on Irish climbing for many years.
Ray Hunt and Geoff Somerville made it up on 27th April when we did Samson, Pangur Ban, The Offence and Revival. The wind nearly cut us in two and it was more like an exposure endurance test, it did warm up a bit though, all good fun. Alan Blair made it over to the Prow on the same day and we watched him cruising Thunderhips. Alan says: "It's E1, end of story." (See the thread on the message board.) Ciaran Kinney and Ian Chestnut arrived in the evening for a quick blast up Midnight Cruiser, before Ciaran had to dash of for a session with some trapped sheep, that is what he said, promise...
On Saturday 24th April there were at least a dozen climbers were at the crag, 3 lads from Dublin, Eddie Barbour and posse. Among the routes climbed, Brian McAlinden did Roaring Meg and says: "Nice enough climb - best way to describe it is as an alpine climb - if someone was heading to the alps for the first time I would definitely tell them to go do RM as its ramps, ledges and use of slings (along with the vegetation) is the closest you'll get in NI. The first pitch is very nice though it was a little greasy. Second pitch has a fair bit of vegetation especially near the top - ran 2/3rd pitch together with the exit kneading a little bit of care as it was wet." Patrick Taggart and Emma Frew went to Marconi's Cove. Patrick says: "We started off on Paudee. I really enjoyed it; the climbing was much more interesting than I had expected. The traverse left to the ledge felt bold but was straight forward enough. Getting over the bulge was tricky enough and I was glad of the big ledge from which I could comfortably consider my options. Then we did Blue. The description in the book is cryptic but provided you start off on the right line it all becomes clear as you go up. I thought it was the easiest of the VS 4cs at Marconi's, although I couldn't protect the crux very well; after the crux I didn't need any gear. We finished off with Caribou. Moving around the jutting block and getting into the finishing groove I found terrifying. It seemed harder than Paudee, but maybe I'd just lost my nerve a bit. I led the routes and Emma seconded. The 3 routes were led clean, which is more than can be said for my chuddies (Just joking, it wasn't quite that bad)."
The clean up of Fair Head continues: The Offence HVS (5a) at The Prow had 2½ hours of work done to it on Thurs 22nd April. This route is described in the guide as a rather loose and scruffy route, so it gives me great pleasure to say you can now delete this. It's not finished though and needs a further visit to clean the start, a shower of rain interrupted proceedings. Once this is done it will open up another very good route to do at the Prow. It's a good HVS to warm up on, to break into the grade on, to do at the end of the day, whatever; as it get's progressively easier as you go up, a very pleasant climb. Mark it in your guide as one to do, trust me you won't be disappointed.
Ricky Bell, Craig Hiller, Aaron Boyd and Geoff Somerville, explored the bouldering potential at the base of Fair Head on Thurs 22nd April. There were 16 new problems done, which will go onto the site in due course with a topo and photos. The area has been explored in the past but this is the first attempt to produce a topo, name the problems, etc. There is plenty more potential and we had only scratched the surface by the time our arms give up. The big one of the day was undoubtedly Ricky Bells high ball ascent of the arête on the Shelter Stone that sits just below Titanic. An outstanding and daring problem which only Ricky did, so good he did it twice. Everyone knows this arête and trust me you will be well impressed the next time you look up at it. The landing is a bit, well, you'll see...
Dominic Douglas has been back to the crag after a 6 year lay off. Dominic has to his credit, the first ascent of Plain Jane E2 (5c) and a second ascent of Suck Large and Velvety E5 (6a) at Marconi's Cove. Dominic says: "A near perfect day weather wise saw all of the sub E1 routes soloed at Marconi's (Cats Whiskers, Kes, Blue etc) with a couple of laps of 'The Phantom' threw in. The grassy top out of Kes still managed to bring back trouser filling memories of yonder years. The Phantom is a boulder problem at Marconi's - there a large detached boulder that sits between The Wrestler and Cats Whiskers - straight up the centre of it and it isn't an eliminate. The hard moves are the last two - one a stretch/lunge for a good ledge - the ledge is about the same height off the ground as the guttering on a normal house and the landing is bad - it's technical grade is 6a."
Richard Baker got up on the 15/04/04 and says: "I have just got in having been on possibly the best E1 I have encountered in 17 years of climbing. Ian C and myself waited for the rain to stop and stole a break in the showers in the evening and dashed for the Prow. Notwithstanding the last 5 meters being wet, Midnight Cruiser is pure quality from the start."
The crag was packed over the Easter weekend. On the Saturday there were at least 25 climbers, most of these first timers. Suffice to say, The Fence and The Black Thief got double figure ascents. Alan Blair, Ken Lindsay and Trevour Spiers went to Marconis Cove and Ken says: "The last time I climbed here was 14 years ago with Alan! Trevor had never been before, so he enjoyed going somewhere different. We did 3 routes all of which I had done before, but I just could not remember a thing about them, they all seemed like new. Weather was okay although a bit cool, and yes Cats Whiskers felt hard for a VS, typical Fair Head though. Must go back again soon." Martin Sweeney adds: "Saturday morning, up and to the crag, nice day rock still a little wet in places, loads of people about went, not going to mention names better to go with Nationalities, there was Polish, Finish, American, Irish - 4 people from University of Limerick, things were a bit damp first thing Saturday morning, it did dry pretty quickly. People headed off and did loads of other things, I did Derg Doom with Liam Gahan first pitch needs to be cleaned not nice at all, was very wet and slimy, and was ready to back of but Liam pushed on the the second and final pitches are nice and worth the effort." Frank Cox and Clive Cusack did both Girona and An Bealach Rundach.
A big crowd was up again on the Sunday and with the sun finally coming out in the afternoon. Visitors with big plans included Pete Hurley and James Pearson, introduced to the crag by Simon Moore. Look out for James on the March '04 cover of "On The Edge." A shower of rain interrupted their fleeting visit on the Monday but they did manage The Wall of Prey twice between them. They have plans to return in the summer for a full on assault of the crag. After the rain shower the guys did Fireball and Railroad to keep moving and Pete says: "Fireball was the best E1 I've ever done," (Pete recently did the New Statesman E9, so has could be described as "quite handy"). James adds: " It was nice to be able to climb in such an amazing place. Wall of Prey is just outstanding. Fireball was also amazing, the rock and features were brilliant, so enjoyable to climb. Will be back in a few months for sure..." Watch this space.
On Easter Monday I counted 18, which included the UUJ freshers. Busiest weekend the crag has seen in years, I'm afraid there were too many names and routes done to mention you all this time...
On the 7th April, Richard Baker and Ciaran Kinney braved the wind and ended up getting blown up Pangur Ban.
Eight made it up to the crag on Thursday 1st April. Sam Gordon and Simon Fell headed up for Hell's Kitchen and The Fence. The forecast was poor but lucky for them the rain held of 'till they had the routes in the bag. Ciaran Kenny, Ian Chestnut, Eddie Barbour and co arrived as Sam and Simon left so it was a very busy day for the crag considering it was mid week. Sam says: "A big thank you goes to Alair Blair for cleaning this route, believe me, we really appreciate your hard work, this route has been brought back into cracking shape, it's great." Richard Baker and Mark Stevenson made it up for an evening session on Fáth Mo Bhuartha.
Colin Wright and Geoff Somerville were up on Tuesday 30th March. Colin says: "The sun was beaming like it was the middle of the summer, what a day. We did Thunderhips, Fáth Mo Bhuartha and Fireball and it was a wake up call that reminded us that the head isn't for softies. Thunderhips is brutal at the top, makes you feel sick when you top out. It's great to get it out of the way early in the season. The climbing doesn't get any easier, every year it is the same a shock to the system to get going, but hopefully that's the hard bit over, cardiac arrest staved off for another year, so the rest of the summer will be plain sailing. Awesome."
Patrick Taggart, Roisin Mallon and Matt Folley were up at Marconi's Cove on Sunday 28th March. Patrick says: "I led Drimadoon and Fat City. Roisin led Cat's Whiskers. Matt "thirded" the routes. All great routes! I can't understand why only Cat's Whiskers gets a star. We thought Cat's Whiskers was tough for the grade. It was freezing in the wind at the top of the crag."
Eddie Barbour and Mark Kelso were also up on Sunday 28th March. Mark Says: "Today was my first time to Fair Head.. It was amazing, the weather was ok, a bit cold and chilly..... but worth it. We had a look at some of the big stuff near Equinox before going to the Prow where I seconded the fence... Best time climbing in a long time..."
"Climber takes a massive ground fall." Despite the differing weather forecasts, six of us headed up on Saturday,27th March for another pre-season training session at the Prow. A good day was had by all even though the sun didn't break through. The routes led where; Fireball (twice), Railroad, The Fence, Fáth Mo Bhuartha, Midnight Cruiser and Stone Mad. The performance of the day went to Sandrine who did her first proper traditional lead on Fireball. Impressive indeed for Sandrine is more used to sunny bolt clipping at home in France. She says: "It was harder than I expected, gosh, seconding Mike on the E2 and E3 last week felt much easier than leading E1..."Later, still on an adrenaline high from her big lead, Sandrine took a spectacular ground fall, stopping herself only by slapping her ear on a big rock. A dangerous game indeed, walking back to the car, that is ! The climbers where; Niall, Tim, Colin, Dave, Sandrine and Geoff.
St. Patrick blessed the crag on the Wednesday 17th March, by creating a perfect chink in the weather for the biggest turn out of the year yet. Eleven climbers got together to praise the Saint on his sacred day. Mike Mataesik on a flying visit home from "Cham," took his blessing, and cranked in his honour, with the hardest lead of the day, on Crib Pad Crack Direct with Sandrine Journet. The duo also did The Embankment, and a big well done goes out to Sandrine getting her first lead at the Head in, on The Black Thief, all be it protected by a top rope. On the big stuff and despite being buffeted by blustery winds, Niall Gault and Tim Wilson, did Blind Pew, while JP Quinn, Brian McAlinden and Tim Colgan, did Mizen Star. Niall then led Midnight Cruiser followed up by Tim and Brian. Patrick Taggart and Peter (second name?) did Simple Minds. And last but not least Ciaran Kinney was doing his one man big wall thing on Fireball and heaven knows what else. But the moral of the story is; St. Patrick is kind to Fair Head Climbers. He sent the rain down hard on Andy and co. who went up to play about on Binnian, there must be a message there somewhere.
"Hard core girl crew rip up the head." Joanne Cousins aka (Jojo) and Sandrine Journet showed the blokes a thing or two on Saturday 21st Feb. Despite the chill in the air, the girls ripped up Mizen Star, blasting their team mates off in a race to the top. John Paul Quinn (JP) and Brian McAlinden (smacks) proved no match as they tackled Blind Pew, just around the arête from the girls. All the blokes could splutter to their defense was that they had slowed up to admire the view. Indeed the photographer had a job jumaring quick enough to record the speed assault. But the photos tell the tale. The sun was beaming down and with a total turn out of seven climbers, it looks like there'll be a lot more activity kicking off from now on. My watch must be wrong, it still says it's February. That can't be right...
The season has kicked off again, much earlier than expected. Six people headed up last Saturday (14th Feb) and I hear it turned out to be a cracker of a day, the sunniest day of the year so far. Brian McAlinden and Co, had a ball on a number of routes, including Fáth Mo Bhuartha, it's first ascent of the year.

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