New Routes

To locate the routes it is necessary to refer to the 2002 Guide.
The latest additions are highlighted with red text.

Binnagapple

Hurricane - Direct Finish *** 24m E2 (5c)
Geoff Somerville, Ray Hunt. 17/07/2006.
An alternative 2nd pitch.
2) 24m. (5c). Climb up and straight through the overhang (crux). Move slightly left to good jugs and follow the steep crack to the top.

Grey Mans Path

The Grey Man *** 75m E4 (5c,5c,4c)
R.Bell, C.Hiller, J. Egner. 30/04/07.
Adventurous climbing in a spectacular position. The Grey Man is a huge three tired pinnacle that sits proud from the crag. From the block lying in the middle of The Grey Mans Path scramble up a small corner and belay on the first terrace.
1) 20m. (5c). Climb slightly up and reach out to the arête of the pinnacle. Wonder up the pinnacle and belay at the pegs in an awesome position.
2) 45m. (5c). A good nut can be placed low and left before stepping off the belay. Climb the left arête boldly until its possible to bridge left and place a 0 friend high in the crack. Continue up the arête to a ledge and then easily up the right arête of the slab to the huge blocks perched on top of the pinnacle.
3) 10m. (4c?). Adventure off the pinnacle onto the top of the crag.

The Rocafella *** 24m E7 (6c)
Eddie Barbour, Ricky Bell. Headpoint. 17/04/2007.
A fierce line at the top end of the E7 grade, featuring hard strenous technical climbing and hard to place gear. Start about 150m down the Grey Mans Path, on the right as you descend, some distance down from Deadly Pursuit (just before the cliffs of the middle section run out) below a thin crack system consisting largely of sidepulls.
1) 25m. (6c). Start directly below the thin right trending crack proper. Step up and left to holds at 3m. Step right and climb the imposing wall with the thin crack. Absorbing climbing leads up past a crucial big nut runner at just below half height. Keep climbing to a half-rest about 5m above this. Compose yourself here and prepare for some small holds. Step up and right and climb the crack (hard to place gear in the next crack on the right) using subtle movements to pass two very small holds (crux). Keep your composure and you will reap the rewards as good holds will soon materialise leading you grinning to the belay.
2) 25m. Climb any old dirt to the top.

White Lightning Amphitheatre

Hallowe'en Left   10m    E3 (5c)
Kevin Power, Dave Ayton. 08/06/2005.
Start at the 2nd belay on Hallowe'en. Traverse left for 4m on small edges to a large flake. Sling the flake and climb the face for 4m to a ledge and good side wire and a zero friend above. From here follow the thin crack to the top. Climbing is mainly on the face on edges and small ledges with micos and peanuts for protection.

Scott's Pine    70m    E4 (5c, 6a)
Nick Colton, Lucy Creamer. 30/05/2008.
To the right of Halloween is a big grassy gully. 10m right of the grassy gully is a small rib below a cleaned ledge at 7m. (The rib is also 5m left of some small detached pinacles up against the cliff).
1) 20m (5c). Climb the wall just right of the small rib until it is possible to pull left to a spacious ledge (good runner low down on left of ledge). Climb the crack and wall above to belay on good nuts at a black niche.
2) 50m (6a). Climb the crack and groove above to the top (the very wide section below the sloping shelf can be avoided by stepping left - not recommended).

Joints and Jams   85m    E2 (5c, 5b)
Andy Marshall , Craig Hiller. 13/06/2006.
Start 10m left of the Bird Hide Block.
1) 40m (5b). Climb the crack towards the large overhang for 25m until able to use holds on the left. Move up and back into the crack until a semi hanging belay stance.
2) 45m (5b). Move up and slightly right from the belay and enter the large crack. Follow this moving through 2 chimneys, easing after 25m, until a ledge below the final corner. Move up the corner until the last 2m, then on to the arete on the left and finish on big edges.

Bealach Runda Area

The Wolverines Finish 30m E4 (6b)
Andy Marshall, Ali Moles. 17/08/2007. (One rest)
A variation finish to X-Men. Start from the top of the large An Bealach Runda belay ledge at the top of the 2nd pitch. Make a hard move off the ledge to gain positive holds. Boldly climb the wall and corner until you reach the top of the pedestal. Step down and move right onto the face, unleash your claws making a desperate move (for the small in height diabolical) to gain the bottom of the crack. Unlocking the keystone gives access to the top.

An Bealach Eile 30m *** E8 (6c)
Ricky Bell, Andy Marshall. 15/05/2008. (Headpoint)
A beautiful line up the steep blank wall above the big ledge on An Bealach Runda. Continually engaging and with the crux right where you don't want it, this line has big blow it potential.
From the left end of the big ledge make tricky moves up and right to a hard pull off two slopey side pulls. Small nut at 9 metres. Move diagonally up and right to get established on the big pedestal. Climb the slight groove above past a huge juggy flake to a flat hold and a crucial blind nut placement out left. Finish up the horribly thin seam in the groove up and right.

Some additional info on this route from Ricky: " For me it was a bit of a step up. Hard and bold and very easy to blow it about 2 metres from the top. Been meaning to do it for a while but things never felt quite right. When I did it conditions were really good on the dark side. Slopey side pulls felt like jugs but the top still felt on-off. So psyched to top it out."

The Terraces

Tractors of Desire   85m * E3 (5a, 5c, 5a/b)
Martin Kocsis, Scott Titt 31/05/2008.
The main pitch offers the discerning climber the opportunity to enjoy jams from fingers through to arm bars. Opinions differ on the location of the crux. A double set of cams from 0.5 to 4 is recommended. A friend 5 or equivalent is handy (but doesn't go into the obvious slot). The climbing on the wall above the slot is very well positioned!
1) 20m (5a). The first pitch of "Give Up" to the grassy platform.
2) 35m (5c). In the back corner of the platform a right facing, undercut fist crack offers a burly introduction to the pitch. The line goes into and then out of the slot half way up the wall. Belay at the foot of the blocky chimney.
3) 30m (5a/b). Shimmy up the easy chimney, stepping right onto the sunny slab when you can. Follow the slab and corner, stepping right for the final few feet onto cleaner, rougher rock.

AD 43   75m ** E5 (6b, 6a)
Nick Colton, Martin Kocsis. 01/06/2007.
Just left of Dark Forces are two corners capped by roofs. Start up the longer left-hand one.
1) 40m (6b). At the roof (friend 1.5) move right (crux) into another corner. Up this to a pedestal (possible belay). Climb diagonally left and up a series of steps passing a hard move to a spacious belay on the right wall of the gully.
2) 35m (6a). Climb up to the top of a small sharp arete then go up and right to a ledge. From here climb up and slightly right to tape runners. Step left to another ledge then up the flake crack system - exiting right to easier ground. Climb the pleasant crack above to the top.

Men of Kernow   100m    *   E5 (5a, 6a, 6a, 6a, 5c+A0 or 6a/b)
Paul Donnithorne, J Jones. 21/05/2005.
The long slim corner just right of Dark Forces, capped by the huge triangular overhang. Well protected throughout but take 2 or 3 friend 2.5s for the last pitch. Start 5m right of Dark Forces.
1) 22m (5a). Climb the double cracked groove then trend up rightwards to belay on top of large blocks.
2) 12m (6a). Take the clean technical groove to a ledge on the right.
3) 20m (6a). Up the groove to a black roof. Move right to a flake in the next groove then move back up left to belay on a foothold above the roof.
4) 20m (6a). Continue up the groove until it eases into a slab. Up this to a small ledge below the huge final corner.
5) 26m (5c+A0). Layback and jam to the roof then undercut rightwards to a big foothold (rest). Pull on friends 3 and 2.5 to overcome the right edge of the roof and continue more easily to the top.

Landscapes of Light   85m    **    E4 (5c, 5b, 6a)
Nick Colton, Martin Kocsis 3/6/2006.
1) 25m (5c). Climb the groove/corner directly beneath the capping roof of Men of Kernow, about 8m right of the start of Men of Kernow. Good belay ledge. 2 pegs in-situ.
2) 35m (5b). Climb the corner, with only a minor deviation onto the right wall at some point: good honest toil! A great nut and friend belay just off to the left of the main line.
3) 25m (6a). Step back right into the crack and climb with conviction, with the crux just where it should be: at the top! Once past this, enjoy the final easy moves over the overhang, with 250ft of air beneath your heels! 1 peg in-situ.

Some additional info on this route from Martin: "We met Calvin on the cliff top as we ambled back to the car. He told us that the pegs we found in situ were from an attempt by Paul McArthur way back when he'd had a pretty bad fall on the top pitch and had never been back since. Nick cleaned the line on abseil. The great thing about it is that you can ab down the line of the route with the greatest of ease, giving it a brush on your way down. The middle pitch is fine and dandy, the first and third will, in the short term, need a sweep to ease the progress of the first few repeat ascentionists."

Supermassive Black Hole    **    E3 (5c, 5c)
Martin Kocsis, Nick Colton 12/08/2006.
1) 35m (5b). Climb the crack in the rib, move right and up the continuation crack, step right again and up easy ground to the horizontal grass ledge. Pull left to a comfortable belay below a small flake overhang.
2) 50m (5c). Directly above the belay, surmount the flake on its left (crux). Follow the narrow slab above to the roof which is climbed using the crack on its left side and a jammed block on the lip. Continue up the groove system, passing another overhang, to the top.

Some additional info on this route from Martin: "A striking, and very direct, line – although actually the easiest in this area, so should prove a good warm up for the harder routes hereabouts (e.g. Dark Forces, Landscapes of Light, or Men of Kernow). Worthy of plenty of stars, we spent two monumental days cleaning the route. The first pitch, in particular, took a lot of effort!"

Rathlin Wall

Faerie Stories *** 90m    E6/7 (6b,6b)
Andy Marshall, Ricky Bell. 30/06/2008.
A magical line that takes the hanging open book corner left of Cuchulainn.
1) 50m (6b). Climb Roaring Meg for 15m. Move up and left into the groove below the hanging open book corner. Small holds and poor gear leads up to the bottom of the corner. From this point sustained bridging and a bit of mischief (crux) leaves you at the top of the corner on a sloping ledge, move right and up into Cuclulainn and belay below a fang.
2) 40m (6b). From the fang move right and up to a jug on the arête. Make a tricky move right across the face into the obvious corner system. From the top of the corner move out right onto the face and follow flat holds happily ever after.

Spirited Away   35m   *** E6 (6a)
Ricky Bell, Paul Swail. 2/07/2006.
An awesome bold line guaranteed to put manners on the most confident of individuals. Start 5m down and right of Buttons and Bows below a sloping ledge. Mantel the ledge and confidently teeter rightwards up the obvious ramp. Sky hook and poor sling at 8m. With confidence destroyed move up towards the arête then back left to a good peanut 3, then up to join the base of the crack of Buttons and Bows. (Bring a few sky hooks)

The next 4 climbs are in an area known locally as Pigeons' Cove - between Puritan and Talking Heads. They start at a big grassy ledge at half height which can be reached by a 36m abseil from excavated boulders just beyond the big boulder which marks the top of Talking Heads.

Reilig  35m     E3 (5c)
Clare Sheridan, Calvin Torrans. 26/5/07.
Start at the middle of the big ledge at the crack on the left side of the huge triangular overhang (The variation start takes the corner crack on the right). Climb the crack until forced to make a hard move right to gain the finger crack running up from the lip of the overhang. A few layback moves lead to a niche and a step groove which is climbed to reach the easy ledges below the clean corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, make a hard move up right (crux) and follow the wide crack (3 or 3 1/2 friend) to where a final awkward move gives access to the big crumbly ledge on the left. Step left and finish up the cracked wall.
Variation start (5b) - Climb the corner crack on the right to the big roof.
Good jams take you out left the the finger crack.

XL   35m    E4 (6a)
Calvin Torrans, Clare Sheridan. 9/06/07.
This route takes the crackline which starts up the groove at the right-hand edge of the bay (same start as for the 2nd pitch of Stop Making Sense).
Climb the thin groove to a ledge and then follow the steep sustained crack
(crux) to reach faint ledges on the right (some suspect rock on the left at this point). Climb the heavily fractured wall (friends in horizontal break) and move up to the big hole above (No. 3 1/2 friend) before traversing back left to gain the finishing crack.
(XL is roman numerals for 40 as it's 40 years since Calvin started climbing at Fair Head)

Variation start to XL, given the name XXL    E4 (6a)
Paul Swail, Eddie Barbour. 1/10/07.
Start under the overhang in the corner just left of XL. Climb the corner as for Reilig then traverse right to join XL.
Note: It doesn't change the overall grade but is much harder than the original start.

Waist Deep in Alligators   100m    E4 (5b, 5c/6a, 6a)
Calvin Torrans (2 and 3), Clare Sheridan (1). 25/6/06.
1) Climb the crack just right of Viking to belay at the ledges running right.
2) Traverse out to the arete (2 poor pegs) and climb this to the slab above, move up and left to a belay (No. 3 friend at belay).
3) Continue up the slab, No. 3/3.5 friend in a slot at the bottom of the dirty groove above, move right and climb up to the overhang where the expanding crack takes a friend and a good small wire goes in above, traverse right to a good undercut and a poor peg, step down on to a good hold on the lip of the overhang and traverse right to the groove (No. 1 RP) climb up to the corner and good pro. Climb the corner until it is possible to step on to a sloping foothold on the right, continue up on edges and the arête to a block, up and over this to the right to reach the corner of Buttons and Bows, belay here or continue to top.

Lochlannach  100m    E3 (5c, 5c, 6a)
Clare Sheridan (1 and 2). Calvin Torrans (3). May 07.
An interesting route with varied climbing. The last short hard pitch could be avoided by finishing up Roaring Meg . Start as for Waist Deep In Alligators in the grassy bay to the right of Cuchullain beside the chimney of Viking.
1) 35m. (5b) Climb the crack (tricky towards the top) and belay on the slab above
2) 20m. (5c) Step across left to gain the steep crack running up to a rightfacing corner.
Good jamming brings you up to the belay on the big ledge of Roaring Meg.
3) 15m. (6a) Climb the short corner of Roaring Meg and then take the line of weakness up the headwall directly above- a left facing corner running up an overhang. Make awkward jamming and chimneying moves up the bulge and reach up and left to fingerlocks and the finishing flakes. Small friends useful. Has also been climbed finishing up right.

The Complete Scream   58m   *** E8 (6b)
Ricky Bell, Ali Moles. 20/08/2005.
Start 5m left of the corner beside Blind Pew. Climb from the ground straight up to the left edge of the traverse on Primal Scream. Finish up Primal Scream. Bring duck tape.
(Note: moves were practiced on abseil. A peg placed was placed on the lower section by Ricky on the first ascent, while on the lead. This has since fallen out. Ethics dictate that any future leader should adopt the same style.)

Ballycastle Descent Gully East

Master Chapster   16m     HVS (5a)
Andy Marshall , Sam Gordon. 15/01/2005.
Start 7m right of The Brat. Climb a left trending crack to gain a ledge. Place protection in the horizontal flaw and a No. 1 nut in the flake. Proceed up the face to gain another ledge (crux). Move up again, slinging the "loose" flake for added protection and proceed with confidence to the top.

Where the Grass is Green   35m   *** E7 (6c)
R Bell, R Druce. 23/07/2007. (Head Point)
A pumpy line in a spectacular position. Start up the second pitch of Wall of Prey to a slopey stance at 5m. Traverse left on slopy holds with your feet just above the buldge to a rest at the top of the steep dark rock. Make hard moves straight up the green wall to a sloper then up and left to a stance on a pedestal. A line of holds above lead out right to below a small roof and an airy finish.

Way of the Jive Monkeys   36m   ** E6 (6b)
Ricky Bell, Eddie Barbour. 13/08/2006.
A bold route at the top end of its grade. From the belay of Wall of Prey climb 3m up the groove then step down and right into an obvious corner. Arrange as much gear as possible then jive your way round the corner onto the face. Follow small holds up to a hard move right for a sloping ramp below a huge triangle in the wall above. A poor runner at the top of the ramp and some thoughtful moves past a wobbly jug lead to a good rest and good wires. Layback the crack above until a delicate move can be made onto the sloping ledge out left and welcome jugs above.

Mr Blobby Superman  65m   *** E7 (6c)
Ricky Bell. 12/07/2008.
A long route with a wild move in the middle. Climb The Wall of Prey to below the highest roof. Traverse left on the face at first, then undercut the roof to its end (good medium nut). Move up to a good rest just to the right of the corner. Climb back across the corner and crimp across the face to a wild move for a big jug in the middle of the green wall. Continue directly up the wall to the peg on Above and Beyond. Follow Above and Beyond to the top.

Elysium  30m      E6 (6b)
Ricky Bell, Ali Wilson, Eddie Barbour. 08/06/2005.
Climb the top pitch of Styx past the uncomfortably loose hold to the series of ledges/pedestals at approx 2/3 height. From the left hand of the uppermost ledge make technical moves to gain a positive edge and proceed straight to top.

Hell's Kitchen Arête  30m   *** E6 (6a)
Eddie Cooper, Ali Moles. 21/5/2004.
Start from the first belay on Hells Kitchen. Traverse right to the edge and climb onto a sloping ledge (large & small/medium friends in crack on right). A tenuous move up the slab above reaches a good hold and commits you to absorbing unprotected climbing up the left side to reach thin cracks as the arête starts to steepen (00 friend). Now take a deep breath and attack the dramatic arête above by a series of technical moves to gain its right side (small wires). Continue directly to top with a huge grin.

A Rite of Passage  30m      E4 (6b)
Andy Marshall, Ronan Druce. June 2007.
Climb the start of Hells Kitchen Arête until the bottom of a splitter crack emerges. Climb the crack until it stops at a number of jammed blocks. Pass the blocks on the right handling them with care. Arrange protection in the crack above and sprint to the top!
The next route is a slightly contrived variation to A Rite of Passage, however, provides spectacular climbing in amazing positions.
Two Sides to the Story.  30m     E4 (5c)
Andy Marshall, Ali Moles. June 2007.
Climb A Rite of Passage, until the jammed blocks are reached. From here pass the blocks on the left again with care move up the corner until the holds run out. Make a balancy move to gain a spectacular position on Hells Kitchen Arête. Finish up the arête.

Ocean Boulevard - New 2nd Pitch ***
Cleaned by Geoff Somerville, on 31/05/2008.
A quality 2nd pitch, revealed after a rockfall a few years back. Just what this route needed.
2) 21m. (5b). Climb the blocky corner until possible to step right around the arête to the open book corner. Climb this to the top.
Note: The descrition for the original 2nd pitch should read:
2) 21m. (5b) Climb the blocky corner trending left to a short steep groove. Go straight over this and up easy ground to a bulge. Avoid this by stepping right onto the arête to use jugs to finish.

Charon   60m   *** E7 (6c)
Ricky Bell , Ronan Druce. 19/07/2007.
A long pitch with a big feel to it. 6m left of Hells Kitchen is a green groove which leads easily to a small square roof. Make a hard move out left at the roof to a niche then up and right past some small holds to a groove which gains the big ledge at half height. From the left end of the big ledge make some insecure moves (crux) straight up to gain the series of niches on the top pitch of Styx. Climb Styx to the pedestals near the top of the wall. Make a hard move to a big flat hold up left and finish straight up on good holds.
(Note: moves were practiced on abseil.)

Ricky adds: " Charon is pretty much a new pitch to the left of the first pitch of Styx, then continues up the blank section where the huge block fell away last year on the top pitch of Styx, then into the variation finish, slightly left at the top (Elysium). It was done in one pitch because I think it makes it a bit safer as the gear on the blank section pulls out easily to the right which it might do if you did it in two pitches, when belaying in the corner at the big ledge."

A Bad Skin Day   20m   *** E7 (6c)
Ricky Bell , Andy Marshall. 31/5/2006.
An intimidating line that climbs the wall right of Equinox. Traverse right from the belay of Equinox to a questionable peg. Keep going towards the arête until you're all by yourself, then small holds lead to a big crimp and another peg. Happy days! Make big moves up the white streak moving right to the top.
(Note: moves were practiced on abseil.)

Ballycastle Descent Gully West

Odyssey - Variation top pitch 20m E1 (5b)
Dominic Douglas, Ciaran Kinney. Summer 1997.
The belay at the end of the 2nd pitch is at big boulder on a long grass ledge with a good wall behind. The E1 pitch is right up the center of this wall on good rock with exposed moves - the VS goes up to the left. Climb up slightly left for about 3m until you meet the start of a left slanting fault/crack line, follow this until it tapers out, step out right at a small pod (crux) onto a vertical section then straight up to the top.

The Prow

Thunderhips Direct   10m    E4 (5c)
Andrew Marshall, Sam Gordon. 21/01/2005.
Start at the base of the arete directly below Thunderhips. Climb the face on small edges to gain a ledge. Step up from the ledge to a flake and place small wires for protection, step right and place extra protection in Fireball if needed. Continue on edges, making a couple of exciting moves (crux) to gain the Thunderhip's crack. Continue up Thunderhips.

Marconi Arête  36m    ***    E4/5 (6a)
Eddie Cooper, Mark Rocks. 07/05/2004.
Start up the left side of the arête between Midnight Cruiser and Marconi. Difficult moves lead to easier climbing up the right side of the arête eventually reaching a narrow ledge at approx. 15m (good runner in Marconi). Step left and continue up the wall to the flat topped spike on Midnight Cruiser, step right and climb Marconi to the top.

Revival   28m   HVS (5a)
Geoff Somerville, Dave Corbett. Summer 2003.
The V groove between Stone Mad and Curlew. Start below Curlew and climb up easily to the start of the V Groove. Climb the groove, thoughtfully, to the ledge. Follow the left-hand crack and jammed blocks to the top.

Farrangandoo

Cadiz   21m   E1 (5c)
Calvin Torrans, Clare Sheridan. (Date?)
The thin crack right of Casablanca, short but good.

Belfast Cowboys    36m   E4 (6a)   Following a rock fall had not been climbed since 1991.
Calvin Torrans, Clare Sheridan. (Date?)
Climbs the groove of Fargo to above the good peg, move left into the next groove and up. Starting up the top groove is hard.

Flashover     40m   E3 (4c,5c)
Geoff Somerville, Ricky Young. 02/09/2000. (one rest)
Geoff Somerville, Tim Wilson. Summer 2003. (clean ascent)
Takes the next crack on the right of Juggernaut. Start in the hanging groove 1m right of the deep Juggernaut groove, above the yellow sandstone band.
(1) 12m 4c. After a high step, climb directly to the overhanging block and up easily to belay in the corner.
(2) 28m 5c. Climb the crack on the right face easily to the small overhang, continue with sustained jamming to exit on the right at the top.

The Small Crag

The Gypsies Nicked Me Squeegee 25m E2/3 (6a)
Andrew Marshall, Sam Gordon. 17/02/2005.
Start 9m to the right of PP, up around the corner, at the bottom of the crack. Make a hard move off the ground to gain the crack. Climb on positive edges until possible to traverse right to a flake. Climb diagonally left on good holds to reach the arête. Make a couple of airy moves to reach a jug, step right and continue on good holds to the top. Descend as for PP.

Last Updated: Mon 21-Jul-2008

New Routes

Binnagapple

Grey Mans Path

White Lightning Amphitheatre

Bealach Runda Area

The Terraces

Rathlin Wall

Ballycastle Descent Gully East

Ballycastle Descent Gully West

The Prow

Farrangandoo

The Small Crag

Last Updated:
Mon 21-Jul-2008