Route Cleaning

Skip To: Progress or Cleaning Advice

In the past any info reported on the crag always concentrated on new route development. A time may have come to take stock and think about where the future lies. The phenomenal contributions from the likes of Torrans, Cooper, Higgs, Ryan, McHugh and all those familiar names we see in the guide, is the legacy we now enjoy. The last period of major activity at the Head fizzled out in about 1997, but the next one has just begun only this time there is a new slant to it.

With the most obvious great lines already developed, the time has come to shift the attention back to the routes that are already there. In other words, cleaning them up and getting them back into shape again. Climbers who in the past originally developed the crag often put in long hours on abseil, working away, getting their new line into top condition ready for the first ascent. Thereafter, some of the routes stay naturally clean, but others gradually become overgrown or dirty, showing how relentless nature can be, when given a chance. The ‘Foot and mouth’ epidemic, saw the crag closed for most of the summer of 2001 and this may have assisted in the re-growth. It may also have assisted to divert the attention away from the crag.

"If you think of the effort and expense, the climbers on the continent have put into bolting their crags, cleaning up routes at the Head, pales in comparison."

Over the years a good number of the E3’s and E4’s have been re-cleaned, by a few who operate at the grades. Many of the routes in the lower grades, if not all, have not seen any attention since their first ascents. Sure, the odd fern or two has been pulled out on the lead, but little else has changed. People have gradually got used to the vegetation, believing that it is all part of the experience. Not in my book. No other crag in Ireland, comes close to the stature of Fair Head. The time has come to blitz the place once more, get the routes back into shape and see the crag re-developed in a new sense of the meaning.

So what is the goal for now? The aim is to concentrate on cleaning popular routes first, then the routes that would be popular if they were clean. The base needs to be broadened, the crag opened up further, to appeal to a wider audience. People think that there are not many low-grade climbs at Fair Head. This is not true! The trouble is many of those that do exist have grassed up or may never have been up to much. Routes such as Curlew or The Offence are good routes, but they had lost their appeal, due to the vegetation. Don’t get me wrong. Anything at Fair Head with two or three stars is usually in great shape. Enough to keep any visitor happy. But us regulars end up repeating the same routes due to the unappealing nature of the rest. Hence the need for a rethink. The spin offs to the increased activity are many: more partners, more beta, more trips away, and more people to help us keep up the work.

"If everyone cleaned just one route, the entire crag would be turned around."

This is not just all waffle in a hope that others will take the bait. The work has been going on in earnest and the aim is to keep it up. But we need help. Think of it like this, most climbers jet off for at least one bolt clipping trip during the year. If you think of the effort and expense, the climbers on the continent have put into bolting their crags, cleaning up routes at the Head, pales in comparison. To abseil in and clean a route requires serious commitment, an unselfish approach, a sacrifice of time and is hard work. It's good head training though. Hanging about on abseil for long periods of time does get you used to the exposure. The crag needs more people prepared to do just that. If everyone who climbed at Fair Head offered to clean just one route the place would be mint in no time at all. Calvin and Eddie have never lost their drive and are still developing away; it is time for the rest of us to do our part. The key to cleaning routes is to ensure that you get something out of it. Opening up routes that you’d like to do, or freshening up those that you love. To some extent, a change in mindset is required. Most people would regard cleaning routes as all effort and little gain. However, there is an enormous amount to be gained if the effort is shared. This is the only answer if we are to get the most out of the crag. In no time at all, the entire place will be turned around.

If you're operating at a certain grade and have worked through the classics, please do consider re-opening an old line that needs a bit of attention. Cleaning routes will benefit everyone. If you plan to get involved the key is to ensure that you get something out of it. Clean a route that you aspire to do, or a route that you do regularly, but needs attention. After all it is our crag, our playground, the best in Ireland, so worth a bit of work to see it maintained as such......

Progress

This piddly table doesn't justify the effort that has been put in. If you've done any of these routes since you will really appreciate the difference.

Routes cleaned in 2008 are:	By:
236. Ocean Boulevard (new top pitch) 202. Cinnabar	Geoff Somerville Paul McGarrity
Routes cleaned in 2007 where:	By:
213. Face Value 214. Flying Lizards (Top pitch) (New Route) Reilig (New Route) XL 83. Top pitch variation of Raglan Road 216. The Stoat (New Route) Lochlannach 131. Creeper 132. Semaphore Signals	Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Clare Sheridan & Calvin Torrans Calvin Torrans Andrew Cubbon Calvin Torrans & Clare Sheridan Calvin Torrans Michael McCann Kevin Power
Routes cleaned in 2006 where:	By:
(New Route) Way of the Jive Monkeys (New Route) Supermassive Black Hole (New Route) Spirited Away (New Route) Waist Deep in Alligators 88. Hurricane - New 2nd pitch 293. GBH 279. Midnight Cruiser 292. Fáth Mo Bhuartha (Both lines) 234. Hell's Kitchen (New Route) Joints and Jams (New Route) A Bad Skin Day 217. Heaven Can Wait 276. Mongrel Fox (New Route) Landscapes of Light 80. Duais 8. Horse Feathers 10. Duck Soup 11. One Crack Mind 55. The Sting	Ricky Bell Martin Kocsis & Nick Colton Ricky Bell Calvin Torrans Geoff Somerville Ben Gibson Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Andy Marshall Ricky Bell Kevin Power Ray Hunt Nick Colton Ray Hunt Alan Blair & Co. Alan Blair & Co. Alan Blair & Co. Alan Blair & Co.
Routes cleaned in 2005 where:	By:
237. Aoife 141. Hallowe'en Arête 139. Born to Run 212. The Mask (New Route) Men of Kernow 164. Scorpion (top pitch) 92. Rusty Halo (New Route) The Gypsy Nicked Me Squeegee (New Route) Master Chapster	Calvin Torrans Kevin Power Dave Ayton Kevin Power John Jones Harry Cripps Eddie Barbour Andy Marshall Andy Marshall
Routes cleaned in 2004 where:	By:
218. Promised Land 123. Mainstream 236. Ocean Boulevard 99. Blade Runner 295. The Fence (again) 140. Hallowe'en 100. Track of the Cat 79. December 275. Darkness 203. Candy Kisses (New Route) Hell's Kitchen Arête 129. Burn Up 185. Silent Running 240. Musarat (1st pitch only) 296. The Offence	Howard Hebblewaithe Sam Gordon Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Ali Moles Eddie Cooper Alan Blair Ray Hunt Ali Wilson Eddie Cooper Alan Blair Ali Moles Ali Moles Geoff Somerville
Routes cleaned in 2003 where:	By:
139. Born to Run 124. Child's Play 309. The Kerb 310. Slittery Slat 318. Jezebel 313. Dark Corners 273. The Doffer (New Route) Revival 314. Loosestrife 285. Stone Mad 295. The Fence 234. Hell's Kitchen 317. Lazarus 223. Titanic 228. Equinox 220. Blind Pew (Both first pitches) 292. Fáth Mo Bhuartha 294. The Black Thief 311. Crip Pad Crack & Direct Start 312. Pangur Ban (New route) Flashover	Ali Moles Ali Moles Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Alan Blair Ken Lindsay Ray Hunt Geoff Somerville Ken Lindsay Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Alan Blair Alan Blair Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Gary Wilson Dave Corbet Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville Geoff Somerville

Please consider coming forward to help to get the crag into the best condition it has ever been in. After all its our local crag, our playground, so worth a bit of effort to see it brought to a new level of brilliance.

The work done so far has made a vast improvement to the quality of the routes on offer. As you can see there are only a handful of us making the effort. Please consider putting something back, to make this place come alive again. We really need your help...

Cleaning Advice

When a route has been cleaned it should look like it has always been been that way. Take particular care not to leave any scratches on the rock, or do any damage. The aim is to leave it looking totally natural, just free of grass, ferns, mud and any very loose material. That's all. Fair head is pristine, so lets keep it that way.

Get tooled up.

What you'll need is as below, clipped onto about 1m cords.

Patio cleaner or similar - About £4 from a garden centre. Has a right angled blade to make removing ferns and grass much easier
Hand Brush.
Wire brush - not a hard version. They scratch too much.
Secateurs - for clumps of heather.
Also, totally not necessary, but if its comfort you are after consider making up a Bosun's chair. What's that I hear you cry? Think of someone sitting on a plank to paint the side of a ship. It's a bum sized seat made from a plank of wood, with 4 holes drilled in the corners and suspended on, say, 6mm cord. This is clipped it into the abseil device (Gri-Gri or figure of eight) as well as the belay loop on the harness (which is extended by a short sling). The descent is then controlled by either the Gri-Gri or a shunt backing up the figure of eight. Depending on which method you choose, the length of the cord on the seat is critical. The seat cord has to be such that it takes the weight when sitting, instead of the belay loop. Very simple but very comfy.

A few tips for cleaning include:

It's easiest to abseil using a Gri-Gri, or figure of eight backed up with a shunt. This allows you to swing about hands-free with confidence.
Work slowly, but methodically, it's much less tiring.
Thoroughly rake out the roots of the ferns and dig deep to get the mud behind it, this'll considerably slow down the re-growth.
Sweep as you go. A lot of dust is created, expect to end up rather filthy.
Use a soft wire brush where necessary for smearing foot holds.
To ensure it doesn't need cleaned again in a couple of years, do it thoroughly.
Finally, spread the word so all can benefit.