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RATHLIN WALL AREA | MURLOUGH AREA | DEVELOPMENT

Page Last Updated:
Mon 03-Oct-2005
Produced in Word for easy editing. Best to Save it.

1. Ali's Arête.

5. Moonman Direct.

Problems 1 to 5.

8. Hook and Reach.

8. Hook and Reach, red circle.
9. Hug the Arete, green circles.
10. Stem Jam, blue circle.

11. Stop Feeding it.
12. Eat it.
13. Eat it Left.

14. Missing in Action.

16. Carbide.

18. Little Traverse, green.
19. The Nameless, yellow.
20. Jungle Warfare, blue.
21. Wonderful World, red.

21. Wonderful World.

22. Cool Project, yellow.
23. Just 4 Fun 1st Edition, blue.

23. Just 4 Fun 1st Edition.

24. Just 4 Fun 2st Edition.

 

Murlough Area

The bouldering at this end of the crag has easy access, the early morning sun and loads of problems. However, there is scope for much more. Again, the landings can be rough so it is best to bring as many mats and spotters as you can get a hold of.





 

The Problems

    
1 Ali's Arête ! 4+
  Climb the right hand arête of the slab  
2 Ricky's Slab   3a
 At the outer edge of the Shelter Stone gain a sloping hold at full reach of the ground, or via a few boulders.  
3 Crazy Arête   6a
  Sit Start the right hand arête. Keep to the arête  
4 Brought to you by the letter M *** 5c
  Sit Start. Straight up the middle of the steep wall.  
5 Moon Man Direct   6c
  Sit Start the left arête then traverse right to join 'Brought to you by the letter M'  
6 Chubs Peterson   7a
  Sit Start the steep wall on a left facing layback and top out with care.  
7 When Molsey Met Melkor   6c+
  High problem with a surprisingly good landing. Initial jugs lead to a long reach.  
8 Hook and Reach   6c
  A one move prob. Start on the good crimp left of the loose jug. Reach top.  
9 Hug The Arête   5b
  Sit Start the right hand arête.  
10 Stem Jam   5+
  Sit Start. Climb the big ledges and top out awkwardly.  
11 Stop Feeding it   7a+
  Sit Start the arête low down in a corner and crimp hard to join 'Eat it'. Standing start is 6a+.  
12 Eat it *** 6c
  One of the best problem of at Fair Head so far. Starts with the good hold.  
13 Eat it Left *** 7a
  Start with both hands on the crimp on the left. Join 'Eat it'.  
14 Missing In Action   6a+
  Two jugs at half height. Finish left  
15 2 Move Arête   5+
  Sit Start the low arête on the right.  
16 Carbide *** 7b
 Perfect line up the steep wall. Top out onto slab using small crimp.  
17 Charlie Brown   6a
 On the boulder opposite wonderful world. Start in the middle base of the boulder, traverse right keeping low.  
18 Little Traverse   5c
  Start with both hands (green circle) traverse to the left and top out. Not very difficult but a nice warm up.  
19 The Nameless   5
  Same start as Little Traverse. Sit Start, then up and over the arête.  
20 Jungle Warfare   5+/6a
  Next to the Carbide boulder, there is a large sloping boulder on the Ballycastle side. This boulder takes the obvious groove in the wall at the Ballycastle end of the boulder. Start below the obvious groove in grassy landing, sit start off good holds, trending right on poorer holds and a high step and awkward mantle to finish.  
21 Wonderful World   6c
 Start from 2 slopers, reach to a good side pull and reach with your left to a good side pull again, the body tries to turn you off the holds. The top out is a bit scary because of the non existing landing but there are good finishing holds.  
22 Cool Project   ?
  The yellow arrow marks a really nice project. Looks really cool and hard problem. See the picture below which shows the big wall in the background so you can find the boulder.  
23 Just4Fun 1st Edition   6a+
  Eliminate Problem. You're not allowed to take the corner on the left hand side. The boulder is nothing special but has nice moves.  
24 Just4Fun 2nd Edition   6a+
  Eliminate Problem. Start with both hands, traverse 2 moves to the right and top out. The boulder is between "Little Traverse" and "Wonderful World" and "Just4Fun 2nd Edition" but closer to the sea.  
25 (To be located)   6a
  On a boulder next to a blue arrowed path which traverses the lower half of the scree next to the sea. It lies roughly halfway between the "bus" and the "column" below the path and traverses the lip of an obvious low cut overhang with good footholds beneath from right to left followed by an awkward mantle and slabby finish.  
  *** denotes an Excellent Problem.  

NOTE:

1. The grades are based on Font bouldering grades.
2. If you have any further info please mail it in, it'd be great to incorporate any new info.

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