Ricky Bell, on the second ascent of The Rockafella, straight after Eddie Barbour's first ascent.
Photo by Craig Hiller.
Eddie Barbour on the 3rd ascent of the Direct Start to The Wall of Prey.
Photo by Craig Hiller. www.hillerscapes.co.uk
James Pearson on the 2nd ascent of Primal Scream, from the feature in OTE 142, Nov '04.
Second Ascents
These routes are still awaiting a 2nd ascent. They are listed in the order they appear in the latest guide.
| No. |
Name |
Grade |
First Ascent |
Date |
| 91 |
Dart Vadar Lives |
HVS |
M Mills, M Henry. |
6/77 |
| 93 |
Serem |
HVS |
P McDermot, C Wray. |
18/05/69 |
| 106 |
Learning to Fly |
E5 (6a, 5c) |
E Cooper, P Dunlop. |
29/7/95 |
| 133 |
Kraken |
E2 (5a, 5b, 5b) |
D Renshaw, C Torrans. |
5/5/74 |
| 135 |
Saladin |
E5 (4c, 6b, 6b) |
J Codling, H Lancaster, M Manson. |
13/7/84 |
| 171 |
Northern Exposure |
E5 (6a/b, 6a/b, 6a) |
E Cooper, A Moles. |
20/8/95 |
| 172 |
Waiting for the Sun |
E4 (5c, 6a, 6a) |
E Cooper, A Moles, R Brown. |
Spring '92 |
| 176 |
Give Up |
E4 (4c, 5a, 6b) |
E Cooper, H O'Brien. |
21/5/95 |
| 196 |
Death or Glory |
E4 (6a) |
E Cooper, A Moles. |
Spring '92 |
| 197 |
London Calling |
E5 (6a/b) |
E Cooper, R Brown. |
Spring '92 |
| 205 |
Stop Making Sense |
E5 (6a, 6b) |
E Cooper, A Moles, R Brown. |
Early '90s |
| 221 |
End Game |
E5 (6a) |
E Cooper, P McArthur. |
24/5/97 |
| 224 |
Maiden Voyage |
E5 (6b, 6a) |
E Cooper, P McArthur. |
Spring '97 |
| 231 |
Taming The Tiger |
E6 (6b) |
E Cooper, A Wilson. |
'99 |
| Many of the New Routes also await a second ascent. |
Second Ascent News:
- Charon got it's second ascent by an onsight by James McHaffie in May 2011, confirming the grade at E7 (6c).
- An Bealach Eile got it's second ascent by Andy Marshall on 17 April 2011, confirming the grade at E8 (6c).
- The Big Blue got it's second ascent by Ricky Bell in March 2011, upgrading it from E6 (6a) to E7 (6b).
- An update from Ronan Browner in April 2011 is that Licence to Kill got it's 2nd ascent by Ronan, climbing with Willy Rock on the 22nd of June 2003. Ronan says: "I really can't remember much about it except that the peg belay had rotted away long before we got to the ledge. The grade must have been about right or I think that would have stuck in my mind. I also climbed Absolute Zero with Willy two days later on the 24th. I remember fighting hard on the crux roof. It felt more like 6b than 6a, but it was quite green at the time. I'm sure it's a lot worse now." The technical grade for the 2nd pitch of Absolute Zero has been amended on the guide page from (6a/b) to (6b).
- Racing Line got it's second ascent by James McHaffie and Jonny Orr between 3-7 May 2010 confirming the grade E6 (6b).
- A Phil/Taming the Tiger combo pitch was climbed by James McHaffie (Caff) and Jonny Orr between 3-7 May 2010. Jonny Orr reports: Caff started up Phil then stepped over to join Taming the Tiger a couple of metres before the roof, climbed Taming the Tiger around the roof to rejoin Phil and then up to the belay. Reckoned E6 (6c) for the line which is quite a logical line to avoid the aid point on Phil.
- Faerie Stories got it's second ascent by James McHaffie and Jonny Orr between 3-7 May 2010 confirming the grade at a hard E6 (6b, 6b) and confirming 3 Star quality.
- The Icarus Gun got it's second ascent by Kevin Power and Howard Hebblewaithe in July 2009, confirming the grade at E3 (6a).
- AD43 got it's second ascent by Paul Swail and John Orr at the end of May 2009, confirming the grade at E5 (6b, 6a) and Paul commented: "Great route and well cleaned by Nick and co."
- Infidel got it's second free ascent by Ricky Bell and Andy Marshall on 11 May 2008, upgrading the route from E4 (6b,5c) to E5/6 (6b,5c).
- Wagger Moon got it's second ascent on by Mike Raine and Mark Dicken on 5 May 2008, confirming the grade at E2 (5c).
- The Complete Scream got it's second ascent by Sean Villaneauve, confirming the grade at E8 (6b) in September 2007 and the 3rd ascent by Ben Heason on 11 May 2008.
- A Bad Skin Day got it's second ascent by Andy Marshall on 19 July 2007 and the 3rd by Sean Villaneauve in September 2007, both confirming the grade at E7 (6c).
- Smashing Pumpkins got it's second ascent by Andy Marshall, climbing with Ali Moles on 17th August 2007, confirming the grade at E6 (5a,6a).
- XL got it's second ascent on 10th June 2007, by Ronan Druce, confirming the grade at E4 (6a).
- Reileg got it's second ascent in June 2007, by Al Sharhan and Peter Owens, confirming the route as a high in the grade E3 (5c).
- Raglan Road, Top Pitch Variation got it's second ascent on 10th June 2007, by Andrew Cubbon and Howard Hebblewaite, confirming the grade at E5 (6b).
- The Grey Man got it's second ascent on 23rd May 2007, by Felix Davey and Neil Thomas, confirming the grade at E4 (5c, 5c, 4c).
- Lochlannagh got it's second ascent on 5th May 2007, by Kevin Power and Howard Hebblewaith, confirming the grade at E3 (5c, 5c, 6a).
- The Rocafella got it's second ascent, straight after Eddie Barbour's first, on 17 April 2007, by Ricky Bell, confirming the grade at E7 (6c). The third was done by James McHaffie in May 2011.
- Belfast Cowboys got it's second ascent by Andrew Cubborn on the 4th February 2007, confirming the Grade at E4 (6a).
- Supermassive Black Hole got it's second ascent on 18th August 2006, by Paul Swail and Ali Moles, suggesting that the grade be changed from E3 (5b, 5c) to E3 (5c, 5c) and the number of stars confirmed at 2.
- Joints and Jams got it's second ascent on 22nd July 2006, by Geoff Somerville and Ray Hunt, suggesting that the grade be changed from E1 (5b, 5b) to E2 (5c, 5b).
- Waist Deep in Alligators got it's second ascent on 29th June 2006 by Ricky Bell and Eddie Barbour; both described it as awesome and confirmed the grade at E4 (5b, 5c/6a, 6a).
- Above and Beyond got it's third ascent by Ricky Bell and Ronan Browner on 24th June 2006 breaking the 10 year spell since the 2nd ascent. That should be the flood gates open, go to it all you hard dudes...
- The Wall of Prey (Direct Start) got it's 2nd ascent by Ali Wilson in June 2005 confirming the grade at E5 (6b). Eddie Barbour followed with the 3rd ascent on the 5th August 2005.
- Men of Kernow got it's 2nd ascent by Ali Wilson and Paul Swail at the start of August 2005 agreeing with the grade of E5 (5a, 6a, 6a, 6a, 5c+A0) but downgrading it from 3 stars to 1. Sean Villaneauve freed the top pitch on the 3rd ascent at 6a/b.
- Hallowe'en Arête got it's 2nd ascent by Paul Swail in August 2005 upgrading it to E5 (6b) from E4 (6b).
- Hallowe'en Left got it's 2nd ascent by Paul Swail on the 6th August 2005 confirming the grade at E3 (5b) from E3 (5c).
- Master Chapster got it's 2nd ascent by Sam Gordon in April 2005, downgrading it to HVS (5a) from E2 (5b).
- Marconi's Arête got it's 2nd ascent by Eddie Barbour on 26th July 2004, confirming the grade at E4/5 (6a).
- Primal Scream got it's 2nd ascent by James Pearson on 10th July 2004, confirming the grade at E6 (6b). Ricky Bell did the third on 24th April 2005.
- Hell's Kitchen Arête got it's second, third and fourth ascent respectively by Ricky Bell (15th June 2004), Simon Moore and Ben Heason, confirming the grade at E6 (6a).
- Flashover got its 2nd ascent by Ali Wilson on 29th May 2004 confirming it as low in the grade at E3 (5c).
- Silent Running got its 2nd ascent by Ali Moles on 15th May 2004, confirming the grade at E4 (5c).
Note:
- Dart Vadar Lives, Serem and Kraken are very loose and dangerous.
- There are many routes that don't often get repeated but are good quality: Scarecrow, Raven, Walk on the Wild Side, Scorpion (pitch 2 isn't 60m!), Zeus and there are plenty more in all the grades.
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